Time for 'bomnamul': Rich nutrition, limited season drive up demand for spring greens in Korea

As spring arrives in Korea, diners seek bomnamul, the seasonal wild greens traditionally enjoyed blanched or panfried. Demand for these greens, such as dureub and dallae, has surged, with sales increasing significantly.

A bomnamul (spring greens) set meal at a restaurant near Mount Namhan on April 16 [WOO JI-WON]

As spring washes the mountains from brown to green, it's not just the lush scenery people have been waiting for. Diners in Korea are seeking out bomnamul, the wild greens of spring, typically enjoyed blanched or panfried with a pinch of garlic, soy sauce and perilla oil.

Whether at home or in eateries, often near the mountains, dining on bomnamul has long been a seasonal tradition in Korea.

"My mom loves spring greens, so we came for them," said Kim Myeong-ja, who visited a restaurant near Mount Namhan in Gwangju, Gyeonggi, on Thursday with her mother. They had just finished a bomnamul set meal featuring 12 dishes of spring greens, leaving the plates spotless.

"We eat spring greens occasionally during the season, since this is when they taste best," Kim added before heading out to take in the greenery with her eyes this time. She had driven all the way from Seoul in search of a restaurant offering a wide variety of spring greens.

Dureub (Angelica tree shoots) growing in the front garden of a restaurant serving bomnamul set meals [WOO JI-WON]

At the restaurant, a dozen types of spring greens are served, including dureub (Aralia tree shoots), bireum (amaranth greens), ogapi (Siberian ginseng shoots), bujigaengi (Ulleung Island aster) and dallae (Korean wild chives). The selection changes daily, as many of the greens, such as dureub and sweet potato stems, are gathered from the restaurant's backyard plot, while some are sourced from its farms in Gangwon.

"We serve what we harvested the night before or early in the morning," said Lim Gook-hee, a third-generation owner who runs the restaurant. While some customers stop by after hiking, others come specifically for the spring greens themselves, Lim said.

"Younger diners have also been visiting more frequently, but because the menu depends on what is harvested that day, some leave disappointed, especially those who came hoping to try dureub."

Spring greens [GETTY IMAGES KOREA]

Driven by rich nutritional value and limited seasonal availability, demand for bomnamul has been steadily rising. According to Emart, sales of spring greens in February and March increased by 32.8 percent from a year earlier. Prices have also climbed in line with demand. The average wholesale price of a 15-kilogram (33-pound) box of bomdong, or spring cabbage, rose 41.2 percent on year in March, based on transaction data from Garak Market compiled by Seoul Agro-Fisheries & Food Corporation.

A taste of spring

For many Koreans, spring is synonymous with seasonal wild greens. As the weather warms, people hunt for plants that endured the winter underground and finally send up tender shoots.

Although advances in cultivation, distribution and logistics have somewhat blurred the concept of seasonality, spring greens still reveal their true value only when harvested and eaten at the right time.

Among the most prized spring wild greens is dureub.

Dureub [GETTY IMAGES KOREA]

Often dubbed the "king of spring greens," dureub refers to the young shoots that grow on the Aralia tree. Known for its distinctive aroma and tender texture, with a slight crunch when young, it grows widely in mountains and fields across Korea. With more than 10 native varieties, wild dureub is available only for a short period between April and May.

Another popular variety is naengi, or shepherd's purse, one of the first plants to appear in early spring. Known for its resilience, it spreads easily across fields and is valued for its slightly bitter yet earthy and fragrant taste. The seasonal produce is used in a wide variety of dishes, including soups, stews, raw salads and pancakes.

Dallae [GETTY IMAGES KOREA]

Dallae, often referred to as "mountain garlic," are prized for their blend of garlic-like pungency, green onion spiciness and a subtle sweetness that awakens the appetite. Chwinamul (aster scaber) offers a deep, aromatic flavor, while dolnamul (stonecrop) stands out for its distinctive sweetness and aroma. Thick stems and larger top leaves indicate better quality.

Sanmaneul, or wild garlic leaves, was named April's featured forest product by the Korea Forest Service. Known for its pungent aroma and tender texture, it is widely enjoyed as pickled leaves, or myeonginamul, and valued for its bold flavor and nutritional richness.

In addition to these, a wide range of greens, including chamnamul (Korean parsley), bangpung (coastal hog fennel), meowi (butterbur) and mugwort are harvested and enjoyed during spring.

Spring greens [JOONGANGILBO]

Historically, vegetables were a lifeline for Koreans. In times of scarcity, wild greens were gathered to ease hunger before grain harvests. For those who endured winters on stored foods like kimchi, spring greens were a long-awaited source of fresh vegetables.

Today, that sense of anticipation remains. Many also believe that greens harvested and eaten in season offer better flavor and nutritional value.

While many cultures, from Japan with its mountain vegetables to Europe with its wild spring greens, have traditions of eating young seasonal plants, Korea stands out for having developed bomnamul into a distinct and widely practiced culinary tradition, with many people returning to it each spring.

In Korea, there is also a strong belief that seasonal produce acts as a form of natural medicine, further heightening its appeal. And once more closely associated with older generations, spring greens are now gaining popularity among younger consumers seeking healthier diets as well.

Why people seek them out

After a long, cold winter, many people experience fatigue and sluggishness as the seasons change, a condition often referred to as spring fatigue.

Mugwort growing along a stream in Gyeonggi [WOO JI-WON]

Since long ago, seasonal greens have been regarded in Korea as a restorative food, believed to help the body recover after winter. In addition, many spring shoots contain natural bitter compounds that can stimulate appetite and support digestion, contributing to a feeling of renewed energy.

Rich in vitamins and minerals, these spring greens are also valued for their nutritional benefits. Each variety offers different benefits, from high vitamin content in dolnamul to dallae aiding digestion and improving blood circulation and chwinamul (aster scaber) relieving fatigue and supporting eye health in .

Spring greens are also prized for their flavor. Because they are harvested as young shoots, they tend to be less fibrous, resulting in a more tender texture and cleaner taste.

In some plants, carbohydrates stored during colder months can be converted into sugars, contributing to a subtle natural sweetness. At the same time, many spring greens contain compounds such as polyphenols and volatile oils, which contribute to their characteristic aroma.

Mugwort bread [WOO JI-WON]

With their distinctive characteristics, their culinary role is evolving as well. Spring greens are no longer limited to simple seasoned side dishes. Celebrated for their freshness and distinctive flavors, they are increasingly being incorporated into a wide range of dishes, from dallae oil pasta to naengi cream pasta. They are even making their way into desserts, appearing in items like mugwort bread and mugwort ice cream.

Easy to find, but not always legal

Korea's mountainous terrain brings spring greens within easy reach. Along mountain trails, streams and open fields, various spring greens can often be spotted, especially by those who seek them out.

That said, it's quite common to see people heading to mountains or riversides with plastic bags and small knives to gather greens.

A person collects mugwort just off the trail of Mount Namhan on April 15. [WOO JI-WON]

At Mount Namhan, for example, some visitors on Wednesday were spotted collecting mugwort just off the trail. One woman said she planned to take it home, blanch it and eat it with chogochujang, a sweet and spicy chili sauce with vinegar.

Many also share their finds online, posting photos of the dishes they have made with foraged greens and exchanging tips and locations on where to forage. Some even organize group foraging trips through social media and local community platforms such as Naver online forums.

However, foraging without permission, whether in public parks, mountains or private land, is illegal. Those caught can face penalties of up to five years in prison or fines of up to 50 million won ($33,800) under the Forest Protection Act.

The Korea Forest Service’s Yeongju National Forest Management Office caught an individual illegally foraging wild greens during a special crackdown. [KOREA FOREST SERVICE]

As spring takes hold and more people flock to green spaces, local governments are stepping up crackdowns on such illegal activities.

The Korea Forest Service's Yeongju National Forest Management Office, for instance, has launched special crackdowns through May 31 in several regions to prevent illegal harvesting and protect forest ecosystems.

Legal risks are not the only concern.

According to last year's data from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety and the Korea National Arboretum, there were 41 reported cases over the past five years of people experiencing symptoms such as abdominal pain after consuming poisonous plants. Of those, 33 cases, or 80 percent, occurred between March and June.

Before plants bloom, it is often difficult to distinguish edible greens from poisonous ones based on appearance alone. Even edible varieties such as dureub contain small amounts of natural toxins and must be properly blanched before consumption.

A safer way to enjoy them

For those who still want the hands-on experience of foraging, organized programs by private farms and regional festivals offer safer and more accessible alternatives.

Running from April 24 to 26, the Yangpyeong Yongmunsan Wild Greens Festival is held at Mount Yongmun in Gyeonggi, featuring reenactments of royal offerings of wild greens, as herbs and vegetables from the mountain were historically presented to the royal court. The festival also includes a giant bibimbap mixing performance, cooking sessions led by Venerable Seonjae and culinary competitions using wild greens.

Participants in the Yeongyang Wild Greens Festival forage for mountain greens on Mount Ilwol in Yeongyang County, North Gyeongsang. [YEONGYANG COUNTY OFFICE]

The Hongcheon Wild Greens Festival, held in Hongcheon County, Gangwon, from May 1 to May 3, offers direct sales of greens, while visitors can also cook and enjoy them on site at self-service kitchen stations. Gangwon’s Yanggu County will host the Yanggu Gomchwi Festival from May 2 to 5, featuring food experiences, performances and fireworks centered on spring greens like gomchwi (Fischer’s ragwort).

Yeongyang County in North Gyeongsang is hosting the Yeongyang Wild Edible Greens Festival, featuring a wild greens market, spring green foraging experiences and local food stalls, running from May 7 to 10.

Additionally, the Korea Forestry Promotion Institute is holding a special online promotion to boost spring forest product consumption. Running through May 15 on major platforms including Naver Plus Store and Kurly, the event offers seasonal wild greens such as dureub and chwinamul at up to 20 percent off, featuring certified products delivered fresh from their origins.

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]