Rich flavor and history of Korean beef on display at Hanwoo Board tasting event

The Hanwoo Board held a tasting event to showcase the variety of different cattle breeds that make up the sought-after Korean beef, while highlighting the presence of the livestock throughout Korea's history.

Jeju Heukwoo, Chikso and Hwangwoo beef are presented at a Hanwoo Board tasting event on Sept. 24. [HANWOO BOARD]

Many imagine Korean beef cattle as a single breed of light brown cow, but the source of hanwoo, or Korean beef, is far more diverse.

“Jeju Heukwoo has phenomenal marbling, with a nutty flavor, rich juices and deep beef aroma, and is only produced on Jeju Island,” said Chef Kim Ho-yoon of the Italian Club in Songpa District, southern Seoul, and a hanwoo ambassador, as he sliced the meat during a hanwoo tasting event held at a restaurant in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, on Wednesday.

The Hanwoo Board hosted the event to showcase the distinct qualities of Korea’s native cattle and to allow reporters to compare their flavors and textures through tasting. Three breeds — Jeju Heukwoo, Hwangwoo and Chikso — were showcased during the event, with sirloin and outside skirt cuts prepared for tasting.

Chef Kim Ho-yoon grills hanwoo (Korean beef) during a tasting event held on Sept. 24. [HANWOO BOARD]

Historical records show that cattle were raised in the Korean Peninsula long before the Bronze Age, serving as both farming companions and sources of high-quality meat. By the late 14th century, breeds such as Chikso, striped cows; Heukwoo, black cows; Baekwoo, white cows; and Cheongwoo and Hwangwoo both light-brown cattle, were documented.

Today, five types remain: Hwangwoo, Chikso, Heukwoo, Jeju Heukwoo and Baekwoo.

Chef Kim explained the characteristics of the three featured breeds while offering tips on how to cut and grill the meat: "Rotate the pan so it grills evenly."

The Hwangwoo sirloin was tender but chewy, while its outside skirt was notably juicier.

Jeju Heukwoo, distinguished by its black coat and white muzzle, had an outside skirt that was soft but lighter in umami, with a sirloin that carried a deeper savoriness. The breed was nearly eradicated during the Japanese colonial era when large numbers were taken to Japan. Designated Natural Monument No. 546 in 2013, today, only about 350 remain, all on Jeju Island.

Chikso, marked by tigerlike stripes, offered the richest savoriness and juiciness. Prized for its aroma, Chef Kim said its flavor shines most when simmered into broth. Historically presented to kings, it also appears in murals from the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Now managed by the Rural Development Administration since 2007, roughly 2,300 are preserved as of last year.

From left: Han Gi-woong, vice chairman of the Hanwoo Board, Chef Kim Ho-yoon and Yoon Gap-seok, Hanwoo Boards' secretary general, pose for a photo during a tasting event on Sept. 24. [HANWOO BOARD]

The Hanwoo Board officials emphasized that preserving these native breeds is not only culturally significant but also vital for the industry’s competitiveness.

“We hope today’s event expands awareness of the preservation and use of native hanwoo so that the industry can grow sustainably and thrive,” said Han Gi-woong, vice chairman of the board.

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]