Foreign visitors flock to Golgul and Geumsun temples for unique experiences

Which temple stay program in Korea sees the highest number of foreign participants? Two temples have become top destinations among foreign visitors.

Participants of the temple stay at Golgul Temple pose on the beach in front of Saryong Cave in Jeonchon Port on Aug. 21. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

Which temple stay program in Korea sees the highest number of foreign participants?

Two temples have become top destinations among foreign visitors: Golgul Temple on the slopes of Mount Hamwol in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang, and Geumsun Temple nestled in the foothills of Mount Bukhan in Seoul. Foreign participants significantly outnumber Korean visitors in both.

Golgul Temple is famed for its sunmudo program, a form of Korean Zen martial arts, while Geumsun Temple is seen as an urban sanctuary for healing and relaxation.

A JoongAng Ilbo reporter recently joined programs at both temples, alongside mostly foreign participants.

Korean Shaolin

Golgul Temple is considered a pilgrimage site for temple stay enthusiasts, especially among foreign tourists. Of the roughly 78,000 foreigners who experienced temple stays last year, nearly 20,000 — a full quarter — chose Golgul Temple.

The temple launched its residential training program in 1992, long before the term “temple stay” even existed. Temple stay programs were formally introduced in 2002 during the World Cup as a cultural experience for international visitors.

What sets Golgul Temple apart is clear: it is the only temple in Korea where visitors can experience sunmudo, a traditional martial art rooted in Korean Buddhist practice. Among foreigners, the temple has earned a reputation as "Korea’s Shaolin Temple."

Out of 20 participants, only three were Korean on Aug. 21. The rest hailed from Argentina, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Belgium and Spain. Korean was hardly heard. Marta, a visitor from Rome, said, “ChatGPT recommended this place. Coming from a Catholic country, everything about the temple feels mysterious.”

The program kicked off at 3 p.m. with a sunmudo demonstration. Under the guidance of Venerable Hyeonung, a 20-year veteran, participants mimicked movements like four-legged crawling and frontal kicks.

None of the participants had prior martial arts experience, and the laughter and groans from sore limbs echoed across the training hall. Still, quieter practices like yoga and calisthenics were more manageable.

Participants strike a sunmudo pose for a group photo in front of a natural stone grotto at Golgul Temple on Aug. 21. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

Temple stay participants practice long jumping kicks as part of sunmudo training at Golgul Temple on Aug. 21. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

“Sunmudo is not just a martial art — it's a spiritual discipline that includes mental training,” emphasized Venerable Jeokwoon, head monk of Golgul Temple.

The temple is also Korea’s only natural stone grotto monastery. Twelve caves have been carved into the volcanic tuff cliffs of Mount Hamwol, giving the temple its name, Golgul, meaning “bone caves.” After martial arts training, participants climbed up to a grotto housing a 4-meter-tall seated Buddha carved into the rock, where we all shouted “Abyo!” — a sunmudo chant — and posed for a group photo.

After training, the simple vegetarian temple food was exceptionally satisfying. Dinner included stir-fried soy meat dishes; breakfast and lunch featured toast and cold soy milk noodles. “I was worried about having to finish everything, but I ended up going back for seconds after every meal,” said one foreign participant.

The next morning, the participants headed by car to Jeonchon Port for a walking meditation along a coastal trail. On the rocky beach, the participants resumed sunmudo training. The mood had grown solemn. Under the blazing sun, sweat poured down as they practiced. Afterward, they stripped off their temple uniforms and dove into the cool waters of Saryong Cave, a sea cave steeped in legend.

A bowl of cold soy milk noodles served at Golgul Temple on Aug. 21. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

A foreign visitor mimics the pose of a sunmudo statue for a commemorative photo at Golgul Temple on Aug. 21. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

Urban Sanctuary

Geumsun Temple is located in Seoul, tucked into the southern slopes of Hyangnobong Peak in Mount Bukhan. It’s just a 10-minute drive from Gyeongbok Palace. A short hike along the trail toward Bibong Peak in Bukhansan National Park leads to a fork in the path pointing to the temple.

What makes Geumsun Temple special is its unique location — surrounded by mountains while offering sweeping views of the Seoul skyline. From the temple lodging, opening a window revealed a panoramic vista of Mount Inwang and Namsan Seoul Tower, a view rivaling that of luxury hotels.

Though many Seoulites may be unfamiliar with Geumsun Temple, it has already become a well-known temple stay destination among foreigners. Some travel agencies now even offer packaged tours combining Geumsunsa’s temple stay program with Seoul city sightseeing.

“Even our three-hour experience program — which includes a tea ceremony and temple tour — is seeing increasing numbers of foreign participants,” said Kang Hyun-sook, the head of the temple stay program.

Tiles at the temple bore English inscriptions like “Wishing for a happy marriage and good health — Becca and Sam” and “Freedom for all the oppressed — Olivia.”

The program had 13 foreign participants and eight Koreans on Aug. 27. A Korean student from a nearby university remarked, “With so many foreigners, it felt like I had traveled abroad.”

“It’s amazing to find a centuries-old temple so harmoniously integrated with nature in the heart of a major city,” said Nikki from New York.

Geumsun Temple, nestled in the foothills of Mount Bukhan in Seoul. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

A participant gazes out over central Seoul from Geumsun Temple on Aug. 27. The temple offers panoramic views of the city. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

If Golgul Temple is an experience-oriented temple focused on sunmudo, Geumsun Temple offers a more restful alternative. The program here is simple, including basic Buddhist ceremonies, singing bowl meditation and bell-ringing experiences.

But what Geumsun Temple lacks in rigorous programming, it makes up for in freedom. Venerable Hyeonjang, the temple’s head monk, said, “These days, more people come seeking rest than religious doctrine. We encourage them to let go of their worries and fully relax.”

Behind the temple is Bibong Peak. Many visitors combine the temple stay with a hike — just an hour's climb from the temple grounds. Kang hinted at a “secret hill” accessible only to temple stay participants. Climbing a gentle slope next to the temple, we reached a ridge with stunning views of Bibong, the Inwangsan fortress trail and Namsan Seoul Tower, all laid out like a panorama.

Sitting cross-legged beside foreign participants on a large flat rock, I gazed out over Seoul. Maria from Colombia said, “It’s more than I expected. I already want to come back.”

After dinner and a bell-ringing session, everyone enjoyed their own quiet time. Some copied the “Heart Sutra” by hand, while others browsed books at the temple’s cozy cafe.

Roof tiles at Geumsun Temple bear handwritten messages left by foreign visitors. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

Temple stay participants strike a pose for a group photo after a meditation session on a hill within Geumsun Temple on Aug. 27. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

This article was originally written in Korean and translated by a bilingual reporter with the help of generative AI tools. It was then edited by a native English-speaking editor. All AI-assisted translations are reviewed and refined by our newsroom. BY BAEK JONG-HYUN [kim.minyoung5@joongang.co.kr]