The Makan brings the rich flavors of Malaysia to Seoul

The Makan, a Malaysian restaurant in Seoul's Songpa District, offers authentic dishes at affordable prices, crafted by skilled chefs recruited by owner Chae Soo-gwang, enhancing local culinary experiences.

Owner Chae Soo-kwang, center, poses with chefs at The Makan, a Malaysian restaurant in Songpa District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW] Would you pack your bags and follow a stranger to a foreign country for a job? Most would pass. But not the chefs at the Malaysian restaurant The Makan. And now, they’re serving up the taste of Malaysia in southern Seoul's Songpa District — at a surprisingly affordable price too.

Owner Chae Soo-gwang, a Korea University business graduate, was once a respected financial analyst in Korea. However, it didn’t take long before he decided to leave his stable career to open his own restaurant, inspired by the rich, multicultural cuisine of Malaysia.

With nothing but an idea and a stack of business cards, Chae flew to Malaysia in search of chefs. “I just gave out my business cards to chefs at hotel restaurants that I enjoyed,” Chae recalled. “There was nothing — no plans, no interior, nothing. But I just asked them to work with me.”

It might sound a little unbelievable to some, but whether it was his visible passion or something else, two chefs from a five-star hotel in Kuala Lumpur agreed to take the leap and move to Korea with him.

The interior of Malaysian restaurant The Makan in Songpa District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Since then, The Makan has carved out a strong reputation. It was listed in the Blue Ribbon Survey, Korea’s leading restaurant guide, in both 2022, 2023 and 2025 and has been featured on multiple TV programs. The chefs at The Makan today are successors personally recommended by the original chefs, who have since returned to Malaysia.

The Makan lives up to its reputation, especially with its signature dish, char kway teow, one of Malaysia’s most celebrated stir-fried noodle dishes, priced at 14,000 won ($10). It’s made with flat rice noodles (kway teow) stir-fried with plump shrimp, chicken and vegetables like bean sprouts, and flavored with four distinct types of soy sauce.

Char kway teow served at The Makan [PARK SANG-MOON]

It may resemble Thai Pad Thai at first glance, but The Makan’s version is saltier, richer in soy-based flavor, spicier and arguably more addictive. The contrast in textures — soft noodles and crisp bean sprouts — adds to its charm. A house-made pepper vinegar sauce is served on the side, and when mixed in, it adds a punch of acidity to the dish.

“While the cooking process may be similar to Thailand’s, the ingredients and cultural roots are completely different,” Chae said.

The chefs may bring the flavors of Malaysia to life, but the overall vision and recipe consistency came from Chae, down to the exact number of grams of soy sauce to use. “I oversaw everything and carefully curated each menu item to ensure it would appeal to local Korean tastes.”

Nasi lemak served at The Makan [PARK SANG-MOON]

His meticulous calculation is reflected in the nasi lemak, priced at 12,000 won. The rice, steamed with coconut milk has a fragrant, rich taste. Surrounding the rice are anchovies, peanuts and a boiled egg — each prepared to perfection — along with a dollop of sambal, a chili paste that’s essentially the gochujang of Malaysia. Add chicken for an extra cost, and the dish becomes even more flavorful, with a delightful mix of textures.

The chewy rice alone, with its lingering coconut fragrance, was enough to put this dish at the top of my list. Enjoy each topping separately before mixing everything with the sambal for a satisfying spoonful.

While Malaysia is home to countless celebrated dishes, not all are immediately approachable for Korean diners, just as doenjang stew might be a bit too intense for foreigners trying Korean food for the first time. Satay, however, was one dish that owner Chae believed could win over local palates with a few adjustments.

Satay served at The Makan [PARK SANG-MOON]

“The original satay sold in Malaysia is very sweet. I thought that wouldn’t go over well here, so we reduced the sugar by nearly half,” Chae said. “Also, while satay in Malaysia often uses cheap Indian buffalo meat, we use premium Australian sirloin for a more luxurious feel.”

Satay is skewered and grilled meat served with a peanut-based dipping sauce. The chicken and beef, marinated in lemongrass and a blend of 17 different spices, had a bold flavor — more suited for a late-night snack than a full meal. To balance this, I used the skewers to pick up sliced onions and cucumbers on the side in between bites. The peanut sauce served alongside offered a nuttiness that paired so well with the meat.

All of the dishes felt new yet somehow familiar — and that’s precisely what Chae was aiming for. “The beauty of Malaysian cuisine lies in the fact that you can’t find it elsewhere in Korea — yet it still feels oddly familiar.”

Located at 37-4 Olympic-ro 32-gil in Songpa District, The Makan operates from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. with a break from 3 to 5 p.m., except on Mondays, when it open at 5:00 p.m. It is closed on Sundays. A second branch recently opened in Yeongdeungpo District, western Seoul.

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]