Fendi collaboration with Korean artisan draws 'cultural appropriation' claims on Chinese social media

Baguette bag incorporating traditional Korean knotting techniques (Fendi)

Italian luxury brand Fendi has faced accusations of "cultural appropriation" from Chinese consumers after collaborating with a Korean master artisan, Kim Eun-young, on a handbag collection.

The controversy centers around Fendi’s collaboration with Kim, a master of "maedeup" or traditional Korean knotting, on its Baguette bag. The handbag, launched in November 2024 as part of Fendi’s global "Hand in Hand" campaign, incorporates Korean knotting techniques, specifically the "mangsu" pattern, traditionally used in ceremonial robes for Korea’s Joseon dynasty.

Kim, whose skills have named him the honor of being designated Seoul Intangible Cultural Property No. 13, explained that the design was inspired by the decorative techniques used in royal attire.

However, some Chinese netizens took issue with Fendi’s description of the knotting techniques, claiming the brand misrepresented the cultural roots of the craft, asserting that the knotting tradition was linked to ancient Chinese culture, particularly from the Tang and Song dynasties.

The dispute gained traction on Chinese social media platform Sina Weibo, where some users claimed of "cultural appropriation," and one related topic trended to becoming the second-most popular topic, Thursday.

Fendi has removed posts related to the campaign from its social media accounts and confirmed it is investigating the matter. The brand’s customer service department reportedly received numerous calls regarding the controversy.

Kim’s intricate knotting, practiced for over 30 years, is deeply rooted in Korean culture. The mangsu pattern featured in the Baguette bag was traditionally used in royal clothing and carries significant cultural meaning in Korea.