Sustainable practices, innovation, bold aesthetics redefine K-fashion
Korean designers gathered at the iconic Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul Feb. 5-9 for 2025 fall-winter Seoul Fashion Week. The event showcased collections that blend sustainable practices, innovation and heritage with bold contemporary aesthetics, underscoring the evolving identity of K-fashion on the global stage.
Designer Kwak Hyun-joo's “Step by Step” collection narrated the symbolic journey of climbing a ladder.
“Climbing a ladder is a representation of life -- sometimes steady, sometimes uncertain, but always requiring balance and courage to keep moving upward,” Kwak told The Korea Herald.
Models strutting alongside literal ladders brought her theme to life, while upcycled denim mixes paired with printed fabrics evoked the rhythmic repetition of ladder rungs.
Kwak’s work emphasized both functionality and high-fashion sensibility, reflecting her commitment to reducing waste in clothing production. Celebrity appearances by actor Go Jun and Kim Tae-hwan from “Single’s Inferno 4” further amplified the show’s appeal.
The celebration of sustainability continued with Greedilous’ return to classic feminine elegance.
Designer Park Youn-hee reinterpreted the "New Look" style of the 1950s by drawing inspiration from the vintage charm of European flea markets and the signature style of Dior. Her collection featured skirt suits, shirt-and-skirt combinations and dresses crafted from wool, cotton and couture silk -- offering a new twist on refined, tailored silhouettes.
“The hourglass shape is an embodiment of femininity that we’ve lost touch with in recent years,” Park said. Her designs fused ladylike sophistication with streetwear elements, incorporating contemporary details such as detachable quilted linings, scarf-like shawl collars and pearl buttons.
The use of textured fabrics, laser-cut 3D appliques and a refined color palette of timeless monochrome accented with wine red, pine green and denim blue created a dynamic contrast that bridged vintage aesthetics with modern functionality. A live jazz dance performance added a layer of allure to her presentation.
Another standout was Daily Mirror, a brand making its debut at Seoul Fashion Week with a collection dedicated to the endurance and permanence of denim.
“Denim represents the endurance of the human spirit,” the Daily Mirror designer said, as the collection combined raw denim with luxurious materials like tweed and sleek linen-nylon blends.
Structural yet flexible silhouettes emerged through reversed tailoring techniques and innovative details, such as using a jacket to create a skirt that offered a fresh twist on classic designs.
One highlight was homage to late artist Paik Nam-june, whose experimental philosophy of art, love and human connection was transformed into wearable art.
“Through this collaboration, we were able to pay homage to Paik’s artistic ideology, transforming his messages of respect and relationship into fashion,” Kim Ju-han, the brand's designer, said.
LIE's designer Lee Chung-chung drew bold inspiration from Lhakpa Sherpa, the first woman to summit Mount Everest ten times.
Her collection celebrated strength, resilience and adventure by blending vibrant colors, oversized silhouettes and architectural tailoring to reflect Sherpa’s enduring legacy.
“Her strength and unwavering spirit of challenge deeply resonated with me. It made me reflect on what life is truly about,” Lee said.
Reimagining traditional Sherpa clothing through a new lens, her work in collaboration with outdoor gear brand Insus experimented with a mix of natural fibers and cutting-edge synthetics like nylon and polyester.
“Combining these materials was difficult, but the results are a unique blend of elements that showcase the brand’s identity,” she said.
Adding to the week’s diverse offerings, designer Jisoo Baik presented a collection that redefined modern women’s strength and sensuality through poetic design.
Inspired by the fluidity of water and the interplay of light with organic forms, Baik’s collection celebrated both vulnerability and resilience.
“I wanted to express the various sides of a woman like gentleness, strength and freedom through designs that empower her to be herself,” she said.
Her work featured fluid silhouettes, sculptural structures and hand-draping techniques that allowed each garment to move gracefully with the models. Baik’s recent portfolio highlights include a custom look for Nicki Minaj’s “Pink Friday 2” album cover.
Designers call for extended timelines, greater diversity at Seoul Fashion Week
As Seoul Fashion Week cements its status as a launching pad for innovative Korean designers, industry insiders are urging organizers to adopt changes that could make the event even more influential on the global stage. Some designers are calling for extended preparation time, and a stronger emphasis on diversity and individuality could propel the event to new heights.
“Seoul Fashion Week is not just about making sales. It’s about fostering a space where diverse designers, each with their unique vision and expertise, can come together,” said Kwak.
One critical area of concern is the compressed timeline that designers face. Park whose recent contributions to K-fashion earned her an International Cultural Exchange Achievement Award at the 2024 Asia Model Awards, expressed frustration over the limited preparation time allocated for shows.
“The preparation time for shows was a month and it was very short, and there’s a lack of flexibility for buyers to participate,” she said.
Such constraints, she says, not only compromise the creative process, but may also hinder the participation of international buyers who are essential for boosting the profile of the event internationally.
“More time means more room for creativity and also for collaboration with diverse brands. It would allow designers to push boundaries even further and respond to emerging trends without feeling rushed,” Park added.
Diversity has also emerged as a key factor for Seoul Fashion Week’s future success. Lee Chung-chung, the designer of LIE, a longstanding fixture of the event, emphasized that while the show has grown significantly, it must continue to embrace a wide range of perspectives.
“Seoul Fashion Week has grown significantly, but it needs to embrace more diversity to truly lead the Asian fashion scene,” the designer said.
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