Austin Kang and the chefs bringing global flavors to the Korean dining scene

Chefs with international backgrounds have incorporated their global influences into their Korean dishes, presenting unique, exotic takes while still staying true to their Korean roots.

Mukjung Seoul,left, and Austin Kang [MUKJUNG SEOUL]

Netflix’s hit cooking show “Culinary Class Wars” has opened the eyes of many people to the world of Korean fine dining, with the show offering a glimpse into chefs’ philosophies and identities through their exquisite dishes.

But some chefs with international backgrounds have incorporated their global influences into their Korean dishes, presenting unique, exotic takes while still staying true to their Korean roots.

Chef Austin Kang, who appeared on the show as one of the White Spoon chefs, recently opened a new restaurant, Mukjung Seoul, in Mukjung-dong in Seoul’s Jung District.

Inside of Mukjung Seoul [MUKJUNG SEOUL]

Tucked away in a narrow alley, the geometric concrete building houses the fine dining establishment.

Reflecting its name, “Mukjung,” meaning “dark like black ink,” the restaurant features black wooden tables lined with jars of fermented ingredients, such as kombucha and plum, which greet guests.

Born and raised in the United States, Kang moved to Korea a decade ago, where he has operated restaurants and appeared on shows, including the reality show “My Neighbor, Charles” (2015-). Kang, however, felt a desire to delve deeper into Korean cuisine.

At Mukjung Seoul, the first floor is the kitchen, the second floor is the dining area and the third floor has private dining rooms.[MUKJUNG SEOUL]

“I wanted to learn Korean dining properly once I began living in Korea,” said Kang. “When Covid-19 forced me to close my previous restaurant, I saw it as an opportunity. Chef Kim Hooni, who runs a restaurant named Meju in New York, introduced me to a mentor involved in the farm-to-table movement on Jeju Island,” added Kang. Farm-to-table refers to a social movement where restaurants source their ingredients from local farms.

This mentorship led Kang to meet Baek Un, who has been promoting therapeutic foods based on recovering health through food. Kang learned the foundational aspects of Korean dishes, such as how to farm all year around and how to use salt and ferment foods, while also deepening his understanding of Korean culinary philosophy.

Together, Kang and Baek even launched a pop-up restaurant called Ojina, and some ingredients from this project were sourced to Mukjung Seoul.

“I became happier as my body felt more at ease. Our intestines are often called the ‘second brain’ of our bodies, and the fermented ingredients at the heart of Korean dishes are easily digestible and don’t cause bloating.”

Kang was able to detect his body’s signals thanks to his days as a water polo player. But it was when he managed the diet of a friend’s father undergoing chemotherapy and witnessed his full recovery that Kang fully realized the power of nutrition and Korean cuisine.

Kang incorporated this journey of exploring Korean cuisine and his own blended identity into Mukjung Seoul.

Conch escargot, right, and roasted chicken with sticky rice [MUKJUNG SEOUL]

"Our main dish, the barbecue, is created with time. We marinate pork belly with the skin on together with seven-year-old red ginseng doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and smoke-grill it for six hours. It blends Korean flavors with American cooking techniques," said Kang.

Other specialties include tofu hummus, conch escargot, roasted chicken with sticky rice and gochujang-spiced ribs. Kang envisions the restaurant as a wellness-centered "communication space," where a meaningful time and the exchanges hold more value than the crafted dishes themselves.

Chef Choi Kyung-hoon [ZARAUTZ]

Chef Choi Kyung-hoon brings a different international flair, blending Spanish influence to Korean cuisine at his Korean-Spanish restaurant Zarautz.

Choi studied at a culinary school in the Basque region, founded by renowned chef Karlos Argiñano, and worked at the Michelin-starred Zuberoa, where he learned to bring out the natural flavors of ingredients.

“To present dishes that reflect my identity, I feel it’s important to connect with their origins,” Choi says. “Korean cuisine has a deep history and rich techniques, so even when I cook Spanish dishes, if I don’t bring in my own Korean culture and sensibility, I’d be missing the essentials.”

Inside of chef Choi Kyung-hoon's Korean-Spanish restaurant Zarautz [ZARAUTZ]

At Zarautz, Choi combines Korean and Spanish elements using Korean techniques with Spanish ingredients and vice versa.

He recreates gilda, an original Basque appetizer, or pincho, made of olives, peppers and anchovies, with gizzard shad and pimiento leaves, adding a refreshing Korean twist.

“I once traveled to South Jeolla and was captivated by the oyster soup there,” Choi shares. “I recreated its taste in a gratin. It was fun to put a fresh spin on a familiar flavor that resonates with both Koreans and Spaniards.”

Seasonal seafood dish [ZARAUTZ]

Zarautz also features a cold seafood salad called salpicón, topped with organic herbs sourced from a local farm. Choi refers to it as a “seasonal dish” because the combination of flowers and crops changes with the seasons. Contrary to the stereotype that flowers are mere garnishes, the dish brings out unique flavors and aromas. Other creative dishes include Iberian pork neck braised in red wine with peas, lobster ajo blanco (a Spanish summer soup) and chilled vegetables with Korean shrimp and pine nuts.

Choi’s trip to Japan introduced him to learn how Japanese-Spanish fusion cuisine developed — underscoring the importance of understanding diners’ emotions and local culture. “Just because you love a certain cuisine and have studied it deeply doesn’t mean you can force it on others. The classics are fundamental, but there’s a limit to how far you can go with them. Zarautz is a space to experiment with creative dishes based on those foundations," said Choi.

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]