Netflix’s ‘Culinary Class Wars’ sparks revival in S. Korea’s dining scene

Lee Hai-woon 2024. 9. 27. 17:45
글자크기 설정 파란원을 좌우로 움직이시면 글자크기가 변경 됩니다.

이 글자크기로 변경됩니다.

(예시) 가장 빠른 뉴스가 있고 다양한 정보, 쌍방향 소통이 숨쉬는 다음뉴스를 만나보세요. 다음뉴스는 국내외 주요이슈와 실시간 속보, 문화생활 및 다양한 분야의 뉴스를 입체적으로 전달하고 있습니다.

Chef Choi Kang-rok of restaurant "Neo," a white spoon contestant on Netflix's “Culinary Class Wars.” /Courtesy of Netflix

#1. At noon on Sept. 22, over 20,000 people logged into the restaurant reservation app CatchTable to book Chef Choi Kang-rok’s restaurant Neo after his appearance as a “white spoon” on the recently released Netflix show “Culinary Class Wars,” following his previous popularity from “MasterChef Korea” Season 2. All reservations were fully booked within a minute. Though already popular, such a rapid sell-out was unusual.

People queue in front of "Namyeong Chicken" in Yongsan, Seoul, on Sept. 21, 2024. /Lee Hai-woon

#2. A long line formed outside Namyeong Chicken in Yongsan, Seoul, on Sept. 21, even before it opened. Chef Oh Jun-tak, who appeared as a “black spoon” under the nickname “Yeongtak,” attracted a surge of customers. The bar Edamame in Namyeong-dong, where another black spoon contestant, “God of Seasoning,” appeared, also had to close early after running out of ingredients due to overwhelming demand.

Netflix’s “Culinary Class Wars” is breathing new life into the struggling restaurant industry in South Korea. The show features battles between star chefs, known as white spoons, and underdog black spoons. In the first episode, 80 black spoon contestants competed, leaving only 20 remaining. Regardless of who advanced or was eliminated, restaurants owned by the participants have been flooded with orders and reservation calls.

Cooking competition shows were once seen as outdated, and the food tours that became popular during the COVID-19 pandemic had grown tiresome. So, what is it about this program that has reignited viewers’ passion for gourmet experiences? At the end of this article, the restaurants run by contestants from Netflix’s “Culinary Class Wars” are listed.

/Courtesy of Netflix

(1) Masters vs. Underdogs: “Feels like a shonen manga!”

Underdogs start from the bottom and slowly gain recognition from those around them, gradually rising to fame. They defeat rivals one by one, climbing higher until they finally face the “master” or “mentor” at the top. Will they be able to win this ultimate showdown?

This is the classic storyline of a shonen cooking manga, such as “Food Wars!: Shokugeki no Soma.” Netflix’s “Culinary Class Wars” brings this familiar narrative to life.

Chinese cuisine master Chef Lu Ching Lai, a white spoon contestant on Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars." /Courtesy of Netflix

The white spoon chefs do not really need to compete—many have been or could be judges. Winning brings little, but losing risks embarrassment, making their participation stand out. A particularly emotional moment came when Chinese cuisine successors knelt to challenge Master Chef Lu Ching Lai, deeply moving viewers.

(2) Fine dining master Anh Sung-jae vs. Street food expert Paik Jong-won

The Born Korea CEO Paik Jong-won (left) and Chef Anh Sung-jae of Mosu Seoul appear as judges on Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars." /Courtesy of Netflix

The dynamic between judge Chef Anh Sung-jae of Mosu, South Korea’s only Michelin 3-star restaurant, and Paik Jong-won, CEO of The Born Korea and a mass-market food expert, also adds to the show’s appeal. Chef Anh values the process, purpose, and perfection of the dishes, while Paik places the highest importance on the intuitive taste when food hits the palate. Their differing perspectives sometimes lead to disagreements. However, during the second round of judging, when both chefs wore blindfolds and tasted the dishes without any prior information, they reached consensus more often. This blind test is crucial for ensuring fairness and avoiding controversy over the results.

(3) A competition without villains: “If I get eliminated, I just need to stay off the Internet for a year”

Another distinctive feature of this competition is its lack of a villain, setting it apart from other shows. While some viewers may find this absence lacking in excitement, it allows audiences to appreciate the cooking scenes in a more relaxed manner. Contestants are motivated not by a fierce desire to win but by a commitment to showcase their skills. Chef Choi Kang-rok, a former cooking show champion, remarked, “I may get eliminated, sure. Then I just need to stay off the Internet for a year.” Even in defeat, contestants leave the stage with respect for their more skilled opponents instead of blaming judges or criticizing others. It is a form of “honorable competition” rarely seen before.

Netflix “Culinary Class Wars” Cast Restaurants

Judges

- White Spoon Chefs

- Black Spoon Chefs

Copyright © 조선일보. 무단전재 및 재배포 금지.

이 기사에 대해 어떻게 생각하시나요?