S. Korea’s top historic eateries by region, recommended by special gourmet

Food content creator Choppaei recommends ‘must-go historic restaurants’

From left to right: Yukhoe Bibimbap in a tin pot from Jungseong-dong, Changwon, Grilled Gopchang from Seoul Gopchang in Songjeong-dong, Gwangju, and Kalguksu from Saejip Sonkalguksu in Yongdong, Incheon. /Kim Jong-hyun

“Choppaei” is a term from the Gyeongsang-do dialect, derived from the word “chobyeong,” which refers to a vinegar bottle typically found in kitchens. To keep vinegar fresh in a chobyeong, alcohol must be regularly added. The lingering sour smell of a heavy drinker is likened to that of a vinegar bottle, leading to the term being used to describe someone who drinks excessively.

Kim Jong-hyun, 51, who writes under the pen name ‘Choppaei,’ says, “I have a deep affection for diluted soju and old eateries.” His fascination with historic dining establishments began during a business trip to China in 1998. He was captivated by century-old restaurants like ‘Gou Bu Li’ in Tianjin and ‘Quanjude’ in Beijing, which sparked the question, “Why don’t we have such long-standing establishments in Korea?” Since then, he has been on a mission to discover and explore traditional old restaurants across Korea that serve delicious food.

Having visited over 200 such places, Kim remarks, “I want to be known as a gastronome who specializes in old restaurants.” Since 2003, he has been documenting these eateries on his Naver blog, which has drawn 560,000 visitors. Starting in 2022, he began serializing ‘Choppaei’s Old Restaurant Diary’ weekly on Kakao Brunch Story, amassing over 430,000 views. Recently, he compiled his experiences into two volumes of ‘Choppaei’s Old Restaurant Diary’ (published by Alone&around), showcasing 70 old restaurants in the Gyeongin (Seoul and Incheon area) and other provinces.

However, Kim expressed concern, saying, “I’m worried because these old restaurants are gradually disappearing. Many of the owners are over 80 years old, and often there are no descendants willing to take over the business. Some restaurants continue to operate but have relocated, losing much of their original charm.”

These establishments face an uncertain future. Their business hours could change without notice, and some might close down permanently.

◇Seoul

Myeongryun Sonkalguksu: The kalguksu (hand or knife-cut noodles) here feature wonderfully chewy, hand-cut noodles served in a thick, rich beef broth. The restaurant also offers suyuk—tender boiled pork or beef—and blanched octopus, both available individually or as a ‘half-and-half’ portion, which pair perfectly with a drink. This popular spot is only open for two hours each day, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Address: 45-5, Hyehwa-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Republic of Korea.

◇Busan

Uiryung Sikdang: Nestled behind the lively Haeundae Beach, this hidden gem offers some of the city’s finest pork gukbap (pork and rice soup). The tender pork, combined with a clear yet deeply flavorful broth, makes for a truly memorable dish. This rustic pork gukbap, generously garnished with chives and salted shrimp, embodies the hearty spirit of Busan’s locals. The suyuk, boiled and then chilled before serving, is clean and full of flavor.

Address: 15, Udong 1-ro 50beon-gil, Haeundae-gu, Busan

◇Incheon

Saejip Sonkalguksu: Incheon is famous for its noodle dishes, and this spot is a true standout. One of the few remaining shops in the once-thriving Kalguksu Alley near Dongincheon Station, it’s run by an over-80-year-old owner who still hand-cuts the noodles and prepares the mandu (dumplings) herself. The clam broth is served piping hot, perfect for warming you up on the spot. Their dumpling soup and steamed dumplings also come highly recommended.

Address: 39, Uhyeon-ro 90beon-gil, Jung-gu, Incheon

◇Daejeon

Hyeongje Jip: This unassuming spot in the old town of Daeheung-dong offers an exceptional pork bulgogi (sliced and seasoned meat) experience. The dish features perfectly prepared pork shoulder, marinated in a mild, homemade-tasting sauce. The first bite delivers a bold kick from the garlic dipping sauce, followed by the rich, savory flavor of the pork bulgogi, which is pre-cooked over charcoal and served sizzling on a hot grill. The 60-year-old tables, made of artificial marble with patterns created by grinding stones or similar materials, add a distinctive touch you won’t find anywhere else.

Address: 34, Daeheung-ro 175beon-gil, Jung-gu, Daejeon

◇Gwangju

Seoul Gopchang: The grilled pork gopchang (chitterlings) here might set a new standard for your palate. The sweet, smoky flavor from the charcoal grill is truly unmatched. The sundae (Korean sausage) served with pig uterus is rich and hearty, perfectly balanced by the well-fermented Jeolla-style kimchi on the side. Address: 71, Songjeong-ro 15beon-gil, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju

◇Gyeonggi-do

Mahbang Jip: This restaurant, with over 100 years of history serving travelers, offers a meal rich in tradition. The basic side dishes include more than 20 varieties of wild greens, complemented by a hearty doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), making it a paradise for bibimbap enthusiasts. A plate of pork or beef grilled over a wood fire adds the perfect finishing touch to an already satisfying meal.

Address: 674, Hanam-daero, Hanam-si, Gyeonggi-do

◇Gyeongsang-do

Masan Jip: Despite its modest location in an alley in Masan’s old downtown, this small restaurant has a reputation for transforming simple ingredients into extraordinary dishes. The 9,000 won Yukhoe bibimbap (beef tartare bibimbap) served in a tin pot is a highlight, packing a powerful flavor with each bite. The spicy beef soup with seonji (beef-blood lumps) is equally satisfying. Regulars also rave about the suyuk and yukhoe.

Address: 2, Odongseo 12-gil, Masanhappo-gu, Changwon-si, Gyeongsangnam-do

◇Jeju Island

Golmok Sikdang: Situated in the Dongmun Traditional Market in Jeju City, this restaurant is renowned for its traditional Jeju-style pheasant buckwheat kalguksu and grilled pheasant. The buckwheat noodles are thicker than usual, offering a unique, crumbly texture. The grilled pheasant, firm and rich in umami, is a must-try. Although not on the menu, you can request pheasant soup and pheasant shabu-shabu with a reservation.

Address: 63-9, Jungang-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do

Graphics by Song Youn-hye