Kimchi jjigae vs. doenjang jjigae: Korean stew rivalry seems settled

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Kimchi jjigae or doenjang jjigae?

South Korea's media has long pitted the two against each other, though the choice has always been more or less a toss-up for Koreans.

But while the two stews remain daily favorites, recent years have seen the scales tip towards one in particular.

That is, these two representatives of Korea's jjigae repertoire no longer enjoy equal popularity, which in part mirrors broader shifts in taste and culinary trends in Korean society.

Kimchi jjigae as today's favorite

A Gallup Korea poll surveying 1,777 South Koreans aged 13 and older from March to April found kimchi jjigae to be the most popular Korean food, with 14 percent of respondents choosing it as their favorite.

This finding marks a significant shift from two decades ago when doenjang jjigae held the top spot.

In 2004, doenjang jjigae was the clear favorite, with 23 percent of respondents choosing it as their favorite. Kimchi jjigae trailed behind with 18 percent.

A decade later in 2014, kimchi jjigae took the lead at 21 percent, surpassing doenjang jjigae, which fell to second place at 16 percent. In 2024, doenjang jjigae slipped to third place, with only 10 percent. Bulgogi was the runner-up with 11 percent.

Although the four-percentage-point difference between the two stews in this year's survey might seem trivial at first glance, breaking the results down by age group reveals a more pronounced disparity.

As per this year’s poll, doenjang jjigae was the most popular among all those over 60 at 20 percent. In contrast, the least enthusiasm for the dish was found among those aged 13-18 with only 3 percent.

Except for those aged 60 and over, kimchi jjigae surpassed doenjang jjigae, with the highest preference for the former among those in their 40s at 20 percent, followed by those in their 50s at 17 percent.

While neither stew was the top choice among Koreans in their teens and 20s, with bulgogi taking the lead, the complete absence of doenjang jjigae from the top five in this demographic is particularly striking, except for a small preference among women in their 20s.

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Possible explanations

The waning popularity of doenjang-based stews appears to be influenced by a complex interplay of factors, though specific research on the matter is limited.

One key factor seems related to the declining prevalence of its essential ingredient, doenjang -- fermented soybean paste -- in homes here, particularly among single-person households.

According to culinary instructor Han Myung-sook, executive director of the Korean Cooks Federation, doenjang has lost ground to more commonly used condiments like soy sauce and red pepper paste, as its usage is primarily limited to doenjang soup, a lighter and simpler version of doenjang jjigae.

"Unlike kimchi jjigae, which requires mainly kimchi and a few ingredients, doenjang jjigae often demands a wider variety of ingredients," Han explained. "This added complexity (in terms of preparation) can deter younger generations."

For Moon Ji-min, a Seoul resident in her 30s who lives alone, kimchi is always on hand, serving as both a side dish and a key ingredient in various Korean dishes. Yet, she "hasn't felt the need to purchase doenjang for any specific purpose."

The Gallup survey shows that kimchi, considered in this poll as a separate dish from kimchi jjigae, has consistently ranked by Korean nationals among the top five dishes in 2004, 2014 and 2024.

Han pointed out another advantage of kimchi jjigae: its taste often gets better upon reheating, which doenjang jjigae doesn't. This characteristic makes kimchi jjigae more appealing to people living alone who tend to consume the same meal over multiple sittings.

Food columnist and researcher Lee Joo-hyun highlighted that kimchi-based stews seem more versatile, unlike the more limited variety of doenjang jjigae options.

These kimchi stews pair well with a wide range of main ingredients, including pork belly, tuna, saury, spam and tofu. "The more types there are of a dish," she said, "the more likely it is to appeal to a wider audience."

Doenjang jjigae has become more difficult to find as a standalone main dish, both in homes and restaurants.

In a typical lunch scenario, Seoul office worker Kwon Hyuk-jun, in his 30s, and his colleagues often "choose kimchi jjigae restaurants," noting that there are no dedicated doenjang jjigae eateries near their workplace.

Food columnist Lee added that in the dining out scene, doenjang jjigae is often served as a complement to grilled meat, rather than as a standalone menu item.

The experts also point to the growing appetite for spicy flavors as a possible contributor to the increase in popularity of kimchi jjigae over less-spicy doenjang stew, especially among younger generations.

Beyond more traditional Korean dishes like spicy kimchi stews and tteokbokki, younger South Koreans crave intense, tangy flavors, as reflected in the popularity of spicy foods such as Buldak instant noodles and Szechuan Chinese-style hotpot called maratang here. The quest for ever-stronger taste sensations has even driven food companies here to introduce ultra-spicy options like Buldak Hot Chicken Ramen 3x Spicy instant noodles.

A 2015 research paper by Seo Mo-ran and Jeong Hee-sun at Sookmyung Women's University's Korean Food Institute shows an increase in red pepper use in napa cabbage kimchi from the 1930s to the 2010s. The average amount of red pepper used in the fermented staple jumped from 5.75 grams in the 1930s to 71.26 grams in the 2010s, marking a twelvefold increase.

Contrary to this preference for spiciness, according to Lee, those older tend to favor less spicy flavors, often opting for foods that aid digestion and cause less gastrointestinal discomfort.

Both Han and Lee also agreed that doenjang-based dishes are likely to grow on people over time. "The distinctive smell of doenjang may not be tempting to younger generations," Han remarked, while Lee added, "It takes time to truly appreciate the rich flavor of doenjang jjigae."

By No Kyung-min(minmin@heraldcorp.com)