Busan off to 'good start' with first Michelin recommendations

Good food doesn’t just mean a full stomach — it's a lifestyle choice, according to Michelin Guide's international director Gwendal Poullennec. “And this lifestyle impacts beyond leisure, to business travel and talent attraction across industries.”

Michelin Guide's international director Gwendal Poullennec, left, and the cover of The Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024, which was released Thursday [MICHELIN GUIDE KOREA]

Good food doesn’t just mean a full stomach — it's a lifestyle choice, according to Michelin Guide's international director Gwendal Poullennec.

“And this lifestyle [with good food] impacts beyond leisure, to business travel and talent attraction across industries,” he told the press via video interview on Friday, following the unveiling of Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024 the day before.

Poullennec has worked in the F&B industry for some 20 years, joining Michelin in 2003 to lead the international deployment of the Michelin Guides in the United States and Asia and initiate the guide launches in New York City, San Francisco, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Kyoto, Bangkok and Taipei.

A dish from Busan's contemporary French restaurant Palate, which received a star during Thursday's Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024 unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

Busan, a southern port city with a population of 3.35 million, is one of the latest locations to join the global restaurant directory. Forty-three eateries were named during Thursday's unveiling ceremony, including three one-star restaurants, 15 Bib Gourmand restaurants, 25 Selected by Michelin restaurants, and one Green Star restaurant.

Busan, southern port city in Korea [JOONGANG PHOTOS]

Poullennec rated the list a “good start,” especially considering the size of the city and the fact that this was the first time that Busan was being evaluated.

"Busan is definitely adding something to the Korean food flavors that we are already recognizing in Seoul," he said. "It was also great to move our way out of the capital and put a spotlight on some culinary gems that are lesser known to the world."

A dish from Busan's Japanese omakase restaurant Mori, which received a star during Thursday's Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024 unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

He especially touted the local food scene's creativity and open-mindedness.

“Locals are open to the world, and we felt a lot of creativity flowing through the people in Busan,” he said. This is made evident by Busan’s three one-star restaurants, with Poullennec explaining they “combine Japanese, Italian and French flavors with Korean tastes to create something new, while also sourcing the very best of local products."

Chefs who received a star in the Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024 pose for a photo after the list's unveiling ceremony at Busan Signiel on Thursday [MICHELIN GUIDE KOREA]

Poullennec also lauded Busan’s Green Star award, given to the Italian restaurant Fiotto.

“It goes to show that the city is embracing sustainability for gastronomy, sourcing locally and finding the right balance between meat and vegetables, and the presence of a positive trend and dynamic vibe there.”

A dish from Busan‘s Italian restaurant Fiotto, which received a star and the Green Star award during Thursday’s Michelin Guide Seoul and Busan 2024 unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

The decision to expand its restaurant evaluations in Korea came after long and careful observations of the city's culinary landscape.

“The Michelin Guide bets on evolution, and after years of our inspectors examining Busan, we found it to have a lot of potential,” Poullennec said. “Food culture is a mix of geography, cultural influences and people. Busan, being a port city, influenced by immigrants and home to open-minded people, has created a unique and strong local culinary heritage.”

One of Korea’s largest seafood market Jagalchi Market is located in Busan [NEWS1]

He added that the recent selection is only the first for Busan and will only grow more diverse and elevated in quality in years to come.

“The Michelin Guide has always played a long-term game, and we do believe that Busan’s food scene will gain more diversity, quality and consistency because the arrival of the Michelin Guide into a new area always sets a benchmark, pushing restaurants to up their game,” he said.

“I also hope it will attract not only more foodies but also culinary talents into the city. We should never forget that the quality of restaurants comes from the quality of the teams.”

A dish from Seoul's Japanese restaurant Mitou, which moved up to Michelin Guide's two-star category during Thursday's 2024 list unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

Poullennec pointed out the growing importance of a region’s gastronomy and lifestyle.

“Food these days plays an important part in making an attractive destination for both business and leisure,” he said. “The Michelin Guide is, of course, good for attracting foodies and tourists, but it also plays a role in attracting talent [outside the F&B industry].

Dwaeji gukbap (pork soup over rice) at Busan's Hapcheon Gukbapjip was included in the 2024 Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand section. [JOONGANG PHOTOS]

“Talks with corporate leaders have revealed that people want to work in a city that is appealing to them, and these days, a location’s culinary culture plays a part in that appeal. Having a company in a city with an art de vivre may help garner talent to those workplaces.”

This year, Seoul saw 22 new entries in the latest Michelin Guide, bringing the total to 177 restaurants. This includes one three-star restaurant, nine two-star restaurants, 23 one-star restaurants, 57 Bib Gourmand restaurants, 87 Selected by Michelin restaurants and two Green Star restaurants.

Dish at Korea's sole three star restaurant Mosu [MOSU]

“Over the past 10 years, the Korean food culture has become more popular for its trendy nature. People also tend to discover that it is quite diverse,” Poullennec said.

“What has been particularly noticeable in Korea for me, over the past few years, is the chefs. A lot of talented Korean chefs who open restaurants abroad then come back to Korea to their home country, and they are even more proud of their culture. They come from the international stage to contribute to the local scene.

“Who knows, maybe one day, Korean food culture will be as popular as K-pop!”

A dish from Seoul's contemporary diner Restaurant Allen, which moved up to Michelin Guide's two-star category during Thursday's 2024 list unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

A dish from Seoul's contemporary restaurant L'impression, which newly joined the Michelin Guide with one star during Thursday's 2024 list unveiling at Signiel Busan [SCREEN CAPTURE/ MICHELIN GUIDE]

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]