[INTERVIEW] 'Chili crisp gave me purpose': Korean American foodie shares spicy new book

Korean American foodie James Park has published a cookbook called "Chili Crisp," celebrating the viral sensation of the Chinese condiment. He believes any dish can benefit from the spicy oil, offering over 50 inventive recipes in his book.

Chili crisp is an ancient Chinese condiment that consists of fried chili flakes with other pungent ingredients and spicy oil. [JAMES PARK]

There are no rules when it comes to chili crisp in the 21st century.

An ancient Chinese condiment that consists of fried chili flakes with other pungent ingredients and spicy oil, chili crisp became a viral sensation during the Covid-19 pandemic, largely among Western foodies who saw it as an easy way to level up everyday meals.

One fervent fan who has made his love affair with the spicy oil public is the 30-year-old Korean American recipe developer and food writer, James Park.

Trained at the International Culinary Center in New York City and with experience working with media platforms including Eater, BuzzFeed and Food52, Park is an “unofficial ambassador of chili crisp” who believes that any and every dish — from morning oatmeal to tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) and vanilla ice cream — can benefit from a dash of this crunchy condiment.

Recipe developer and food writer James Park poses with his new cookbook "Chili Crisp" at the JoongAng Ilbo Building in Mapo District, western Seoul, on Tuesday. [PARK SANG-MOON]

He unleashed his wildest foodie dreams in his new cookbook “Chili Crisp,” published in August. Its 50-plus inventive recipes reinterpret familiar dishes through this spicy Asian sauce.

“I was initially insecure about the idea of publishing a cookbook about chili crisp,” Park told the Korea JoongAng Daily at its office in Mapo District, western Seoul, on Tuesday during his press trip to Korea facilitated by dbBOOKS. “Chili crisp is a Chinese condiment, and I, as a Korean American, did not grow up eating it. I didn’t want to misrepresent it.”

After some contemplation, he decided to approach the process simply as it is: just a regular guy hyped about chili crisp and excited to share his experience with the world.

“My intention isn’t to lecture others about this condiment,” he said. “This book is my journey with chili crisp and I want to inspire others to create their own stories with this condiment.”

Tteokbokki, or spicy rice cakes, infused with chili crisp [JAMES PARK]

His cookbook includes some Korean dishes like samgyeopsal (pork belly), bibim guksu (spicy cold noodles) and sundubu jjigae (spicy tofu stew) — but with a chili crisp twist. He also gives a recipe for his own chili crisp, made with Korean gochugaru (red pepper flakes).

It certainly isn’t limited to Korean dishes, however, and arguably the most fun lies in its last chapter: dessert.

The section contains some eccentric recipes like sesame-crusted gochugaru shortbread cookies, fluffy chocolate roll cake with strawberry chili crisp, and spicy lemony ice cream. They were some of the most challenging recipes to invent, but Park promises they are worth trying.

“Imagine a very garlicky, oily peach crumble,” he said. It was only after such failures that he finally figured out that the key to a deliciously spicy and sweet dessert is to leave out the more savory ingredients from the chili crisp.

“I love this non-traditional, out-of-the-box style of cooking, because then it becomes an act through which I can express myself.”

James Park's cookbook "Chili Crisp" published in August [PARK SANG-MOON]

Park has always been food-curious, recalling the many hours he would spend watching food shows on cable television and taking money out of his parents’ coin jar to buy ingredients from the supermarket.

“In college, I finally had the luxury of having my own kitchen and I just went wild — trying new dishes, cooking until 3 a.m. and buying things at the supermarket that I hadn’t tried before,” he said.

The love story started when he encountered a jar of chili crisp for the first time in the condiments aisle of a New York City supermarket, around 2017. He described the taste as an “eye-opener.”

Ice cream infused with chili crisp in James Park's cookbook "Chili Crisp" [JAMES PARK]

“It was crunchy and spicy, and just something that I had never tasted before, and I became obsessed,” Park said. “Trying different brands of the condiment became sort of my hobby, and I think I collected like 20 different jars of chili crisp.”

His enthusiasm continued beyond his pantry, as he said that he felt compelled to share and talk about chili crisps with other people.

“It started by me reaching out to the Asian American community and Chinese students at my school and asking them how they eat chili crisps,” he said. “When I saw how equally thrilled they were about this condiment, I realized that this was a way I could connect with myself as well as others.”

Chili crisp-infused pasta in James Park's cookbook "Chili Crisp" [JAMES PARK]

For young Park, finding his identity and placing himself within a community was something that he described as being more difficult than for most. He left Korea when he was 13, after experiencing difficulties with strict school regulations on students' appearances, like the kinds of glasses he wore and the length of his hair. “I felt like I wasn’t allowed to express myself,” he said.

In America, he lived with a Korean family in Alabama, and then another in Texas, where he struggled with his identity. “I spent a lot of my adolescent years trying to hide who I was,” he said.

Cooking offered Park solace during these times.

“Through cooking, I am making a conscious effort to be happy. It is a healing process, and I feel lucky to have found what makes me happy,” he said. “And sharing my joy of chili crisps was a way that gave me the confidence to be myself.

“Knowing that there are other people who also feel the joy and deliciousness of this condiment makes me so content. Chili crisp gave me a purpose in life: to connect and share joy.”

Sundubu jjigae, or spicy tofu soup, in James Park's cookbook "Chili Crisp" [JAMES PARK]

Park doesn't have concrete plans for the future, though he is certain that he will continue to build relationships with people around the world with food — and continue eating chili crisp.

"It's still so delicious. Every single time," he said.

"Chili Crisp" is available on dbBOOKS' official website.

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]