Tanghulu and malatang remain popular despite Korea-China tensions

Despite souring relations between South Korea and China, Koreans’ culinary preferences reveal a paradoxical phenomenon with the growing popularity of Chinese-infused treats like tanghulu and malatang particularly among the younger generation.

Tanghulu, a famous Chinese snack with candied caramelized fruits on a stick [SHUTTERSTOCK]

Despite souring relations between South Korea and China, Koreans’ culinary preferences reveal a paradoxical phenomenon with the growing popularity of Chinese-infused treats like tanghulu and malatang (spicy hot soup), particularly among the younger generation.

Tanghulu, a traditional Chinese dessert created by skewering assorted fruits coated with a layer of sugary syrup, has now firmly secured its status as one of the most sought-after, trendy desserts among teenagers. Tanghulu specialty shops offer a wide range of fruit choices, including strawberries, muscat grapes, pineapples, mandarins and blueberries, priced between 3,000 ($2.24) to 4,000 won, or even between 5,000 to 7,000 won at street stalls in Myeong-dong.

"Nothing quite matches tanghulu for dessert,” sixth-grader Choi Eun-soo said after purchasing a colorful tanghulu at the Wang Ga Tanghulu franchise in Gwacheon, Gyeonggi, on a recent Friday. “After a meal, I often share tanghulu with my friends."

"Tanghulu's sweetness and fruity flavor make it enjoyable,” Choi’s friend Kim Ye-jin added. “It's a bit costly to purchase regularly with my allowance, so I sometimes prepare it at home with my mom.”

Mukbang content creator Moon Bok-hee features tanghulu during a mukbang eating session on her YouTube channel "Eat With Boki." [SCREEN CAPTURE]

YouTube and TikTok catalyst

Tanghulu's surge in popularity can be attributed to multiple factors, including its compatibility with social media.

Its popularity surged during the Covid-19 era, with many embracing its rather easy preparation while practicing social distancing at home and sharing their unique homemade recipes. Some loyal fans created videos of the ASMR (autonomous sensory meridian response) trend on YouTube and TikTok, which offers a satisfying crackling sound with each bite, and its vibrant colors that make it “instagrammable.”

"YouTube Shorts features an abundance of tanghulu content,” 12-year-old Oh Sang-won said. “While scrolling through Shorts, tanghulu content pops up two or three times in just 30 minutes. These videos include mukbang and ASMR content, and I particularly enjoy the crisp sounds."

"After my initial encounter with tanghulu during a trip to China, I started exploring ways to enhance its crisp texture, reduce stickiness, and elevate its visual appeal, all the while prioritizing hygiene," Jung Chul-hun, CEO of Wang Ga Tanghulu, Korea's first and largest tanghulu franchise, told the Korea JoongAng Daily. "With a vision to cater to children's preferences, given the limited variety of fruit desserts in street food, the idea [to establish the franchise] took root."

Tanghulu's popularity has significantly grown among teenagers, as per the statistics gathered by the Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corporation (aT). In the first half of 2023, tanghulu was the most searched term among teenagers in the frozen and convenient food category, according to aT’s data curated from a wide array of social media platforms such as Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. Additionally, Iced Tanghulu was third on the list.

As the tanghulu trend continues, the number of establishments offering the treat is also rapidly increasing. Wang Ga Tanghulu, which opened in 2017, saw its store count soar from around 50 in February this year to over 350 in August — a seven-fold surge.

Beyond dedicated tanghulu shops, the food industry has swiftly embraced the trend by introducing tanghulu-inspired menu items. Juicy, a specialized fruit juice franchise, joined the trend by adding tanghulu to its juice menu this month, explaining it "crafts novel menu items that harmonize with the distinctive trends of each season," adding that it will "leverage its unique qualities of using seasonal fruits."

Korean teens wait in front of a malatang store in Gangnam on Sunday. [SEO JI-EUN]

Malatang paved the way before tanghulu’s craze

Before tanghulu took center stage, the spotlight was on malatang. This Chinese-style hot pot dish, characterized by its blend of vegetables, meat, and skewers in a flavorful broth, transitioned from a transient trend to a steadfast favorite.

"I think I have malatang about once a week,” Choi said. The surge in demand even resulted in maltang making an appearance on elementary school cafeteria menus after it was voted the top choice in a survey, she added.

It wasn't until 2017 that malatang's fiery and spicy allure caught on, particularly among the younger generation. The popularity resulted in the proliferation of malatang restaurants across major commercial districts, often fusing traditional Korean dishes like jeongol (hot pot) and ramyeon.

Popular tteokbokki franchise Dongdaemun Yuptteok introduced "Mala Tteokbokki" to its menu in July, creating a buzz with its incorporation of the spicy mouth-numbing spice mala as a key ingredient. The anticipation translated into a rush of purchases, with the initial supply sold out within weeks.

According to the food delivery app Baedal Minjok, malatang secured the top spot among teenagers' favorite delivery menu items in 2021. An analysis of sales data for members using KB Kookmin Card's check cards from 2019 to 2022 revealed that, for female students, malatang topped all other options except coffee.

Diplomacy is one thing, food another

The negative perception of China among some Korean youth has not hindered the success of profoundly Chinese food items such as malatang and tanghulu. Wang Ga Tanghulu, for instance, intricately weaves in Chinese elements such as characters and traditional red lanterns, yet this blend hasn't impeded its popularity.

A Wang Ga Tanghulu branch located in Gwacheon, Gyeonggi, exuding Chinese-style interior decor with iconic red lanterns. [SEO JI-EUN]

In the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, many Koreans harbor negative opinions toward China. Instances of alleged cultural appropriation and anecdotes of difficult personal interactions with Chinese people have further allowed opinions to sour.

The "No Japan" boycott movement in 2019 targeted Japanese products and businesses. In addition to boycotting Japanese brands such as Asahi beer, there were notable incidents of public criticism aimed at individuals seen with Uniqlo bags, and even instances of Japanese-imported cars being subjected to vandalism, resulting in a heightened level of tension.

However, despite harboring reservations about China, tanghulu consumers separate their enjoyment of such treats from their sentiments.

“Concerns about Chinese cuisine being unhygienic do linger, but for desserts like tanghulu, which simply coat domestic fruits with sugar, these worries are lessened," said Kim Ami, after purchasing tanghulu for her seven-year-old and two-year-old sons on Friday.

“Although the 'Made in China' label isn't great when it comes to food, it doesn't matter. Chinese food is delicious,” Oh said.

Regarding the history and identity of tanghulu, Wang Ga Tanghulu's CEO expressed that while the interior design incorporates Chinese-style elements due to its origins in China, the sourcing of fruits and the development of recipes all happen in Korea.

"Thus, I don't perceive a substantial connection with China," the 48-year-old emphasized. "Foreign visitors, including those from China, have even acknowledged that tanghulu in Korea has a superior taste. Although tanghulu traces its roots back to China, I believe it is here in Korea that it has garnered more recognition compared to its place of origin."

Experts emphasize that, unlike clothing or vehicles, food is less susceptible to cultural aversions due to its less overt cultural associations.

“The act of consuming food emerges as a transient experience where taste reigns supreme, often fostering a disconnect for consumers from prevailing national hostilities,” commented Lee Eun-hee, a consumer science professor from Inha University. “During the No-Japan movement, for instance, we saw more observable industries like clothing and automobiles bear the brunt of the impact, while dishes like sushi and gyudon [Japanese-style beef and rice bowl] remained relatively unscathed.”

"In today's global market, Korean cuisine is expanding its presence worldwide, and disliking China does not necessarily equate to Chinese food not selling," Jung said. "If we hold a grudge against China, it might also hold a grudge against us. Instead of harboring biases, I believe it is more fitting to create our own unique culture." Sharing lists of Korean-owned malatang shops

Yet some Koreans are sharing methods to identify the ethnicity of restaurant owners.

Jung, reflecting on his early experiences, noted, "During the initial phases, we encountered a considerable number of inquiries from customers wondering if the store owners were Chinese."

The popularity of malatang once experienced a dip in early 2020, driven by concerns surrounding “ingredient origins” and “potential Covid-19 transmission” through the food. This concern was particularly amplified in cases where restaurant owners or employees had Chinese backgrounds.

A response to this sentiment emerged as online users began compiling lists of malatang establishments owned by Koreans. The criterion for identification often rested on the owners' names, discerned from the store information section on food delivery applications.

"Eating malatang is a personal choice, but when you come across a restaurant owner with a Chinese name, it might be worth reconsidering your order," read a comment beneath a post discussing malatang. "This is helping Chinese people set up buildings in Seoul, while Koreans move into them. Let's not play a part in financially supporting Chinese people."

Sorimmara, a malatang franchise in Korea, highlights its Korean ownership and headquarters in a notice. [SCREEN CAPTURE]

As the discourse gained traction, one malatang franchise chose to assert its Korean identity. In a notice prominently displayed in a delivery app, they stated, "We are an entirely Korean brand with our roots and headquarters in Korea, actively involved in developing local sauces. Our operations are overseen by a CEO and headquarters team, all of whom are 100 percent Korean."

BY SEO JI-EUN [seo.jieun1@joongang.co.kr]