Let your aunties decide your dinner at these 'imokase' restaurants

Imokase is a blend of two words: imo, a Korean word for aunt, which doubles as a nickname for female restaurant owners or workers, and omakase, a Japanese tradition of letting the chef choose your menu. At an imokase joint, diners trust the ...

Kalguksoo (knife-cut noodles) at HyungJaeBunSik, served with naengmyeon and kimchi [SHAKERRA BARTLEY]

"Imokase" is a blend of two words: imo, a Korean word for aunt, which doubles as a nickname for female restaurant owners or workers, and omakase, a Japanese tradition of letting the chef choose your menu.

At an imokase joint, diners trust the aunties and let them serve their best. It's an experience that feeds not just your belly but also your soul.

It's intriguing to look back at Korea's food stalls in the 1960s or the humble beginnings from where these culinary traditions evolved. Central to this history is the role of women, especially older women. However, many of these restaurants were in jeopardy of fading away during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Yet, imokases have made a strong return after pandemic restrictions have been lifted, carving out their niche in modern Korea. Mom-and-pop restaurants like these aren't just about their food. They're an integral part of the culture and a lifeline for students who are on a tight budget but still crave homemade meals. The aunties serve up warmth and community along with delicious food.

For those who are also craving an imokase experience, here are some recommendations that will satisfy your taste buds.

Rich Lunch

Tucked away in a quaint alley of Jongno 3-ga in Jongno District, central Seoul, there's a culinary gem that locals swear by. The place, in a bustling neighborhood known for its charming cafes, offers a unique dining experience deeply rooted in traditional Korean cuisine. True to the surrounding area's vibe, the restaurant provides a multi-course meal completely chosen by the restaurant.

In the morning and through lunch, the restaurant serves sundaeguk, or Korean blood sausage soup. But it rolls out a unique imokase course for dinner.

Since it is a sundaegook restaurant during the day, the dinner course often contains sundae, or Korean blood sausage. But diners can get anything when they order imokase meals at the restaurant, with dishes ranging from stir-fried beef brisket to grilled fish. The full course meal also often comes with pajeon, or savory Korean scallion pancake, often enjoyed with soy dipping sauce.

Here, the dinner course is a little pricey at 40,000 won ($31), but what customers get in return is nothing short of amazing. At the restaurant, I was served a fresh piece of beef that I grilled in addition to all the other foods. Considering that the bill at most Korean barbecue restaurants can easily go above 60,000 won, the course may be reasonable.

Although customers will not be able to see the aunties cooking the meal in front of them like at many other imokase restaurants, the restaurant makes up for it with great food.

Coffee Ramen Sikpoom

At Coffee Ramen Sikpoom, customers are first met with a sea of Korean cup ramyeon noodles rather than a traditional menu.

Coffee Ramen Sikpoom is right in the heart of Seoul, in Jung District, central Seoul. The restaurant has become well-known after being featured on a social media influencer's content.

The restaurant's signature dish is fried rice, but customers don't just get an ordinary dish of fried rice. The auntie here has leveled up the fried rice experience by packing it with fresh toppings and umami ramyeon seasonings.

Each dish is around 4,000 won, which makes it perfect for students to indulge in. Toppings make the dish special, and visitors can only know what toppings will be available once arriving at the restaurant that day. For an additional 1,000 won, you can add protein available that day.

The rich, deep flavors of ramyeon and the crispy, satisfying texture of fried rice create a sense of home that comes with an explosion of flavors. The auntie at Coffee Ramen Sikpoom starts her day early, serving customers from around 6 a.m. The auntie here likes to say that her secret is to "drizzle sesame oil and seeds at the bottom of the cup first" so that the first bite you get is packed with flavor.

Because the restaurant is inside a small corner store, visitors can ask the auntie to cook dishes that are not on the menu if the ingredients can be found at the store.

HyungJaeBunSik

HyungJaeBunSik's affordable prices make the restaurant an attractive dining option. A full meal at the restaurant costs just 8,000 won, which is considerably cheaper than similar establishments in the area.

Despite this, HyungJaeBunSik makes no compromise on its food's quality and variety. Customers are free to choose whichever main course they want, with choices ranging from kalguksoo (knife-cut noodles) to naengmyeon (cold noodles). Many of the ingredients are fresh and from the local market. It is common to get different side dishes every time you visit, as the ingredients the restaurant uses change with the season.

These traditional Korean noodle dishes offer a delightful experience, with their distinct textures and flavors setting them apart. The kalguksoo comes with soft knife-cut noodles, while the naengmyeon is a refreshing, chilled alternative.

The kalguksoo, in particular, has the perfect little whisper of seaweed that transports you straight to the coastline.

These noodles are hand-pulled every day around 4 a.m. to start service at 5:30 a.m. The restaurant's three aunties have been managing the stall for 40 years, sitting at the entrance of the noodle alley in Namdaemun Market.

During this time, HyungJaeBunSik has found itself in the spotlight due to its popularity. Featured on multiple prominent broadcasting channels, including MBC's Wonderful Radio and SBS's Morning Wide, this dining spot has caught the atte­ntion of many food lovers, such as myself. With high expectations in mind after hearing so much buzz about it, visiting HyungJaeBunSik was not a disappointment.