[K-FOOD GOES GLOBAL] Naro entices New York City with classic Korean flavors

Named after Korea's first successful rocket in space, Naro takes the most candid approach to Korean cuisine out of the four restaurants that Chef Park Jung-hyun runs in New York with his wife and business partner Ellia Park.

Interior of Naro [NAEUN HOSPITALITY]

Named after Korea's first successful rocket in space, Naro takes the most candid approach to Korean cuisine out of the four restaurants that Chef Park Jung-hyun runs in New York with his wife and business partner Ellia Park.

Just looking at the menu which uses rare transliterations of Korean words such as Gim Bugak (seaweed chips), Tangpyeongchae (mung bean jelly salad), Shiso Twigim (fried perilla leaf) and Chamoe Hwache (Korean melon fruit salad), it is clear that Naro puts its Korean identity at the forefront compared to many other Korean restaurants that put more of a contemporary spin on their menus for more Western-looking dishes.

"Naro, our third [restaurant], focuses on sharing and continuing the heritage of Hansik [traditional Korean cuisine], here in New York City," Chef Park said in an email interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily.

Chef Park Jung-hyun [PARK SANG-MOON]

"We felt that foundational knowledge and interest in Korean cuisine in New York has grown over the past few years, making a concept like Naro more feasible by bringing traditional flavors back."

In addition to boosted interest in Korean food due to the popularity of K-pop and drama, Park's confidence to open a third post taking its visitors to the root of Korean culture was boosted by Atomix's success.

Atomix is the Parks' second restaurant that focuses on bringing Korean cuisine to the haute couture level by putting a contemporary and experimental spin on Korean ingredients.

It won two Michelin stars last year and ranked eighth in the World's 50 Best Restaurants, a top spot among U.S.-based restaurants.

"If our vision with Atomix was to elevate Korean cuisine by taking inspiration from the contemporary world, our vision with Naro was to go back in time and re-examine the roots of Korean food as we know it now," Park explained.

Dishes served at Naro [NAEUN HOSPITALITY]

Using transliteration of Korean words on Naro's menu is also part of the duo's effort to convey Korean culture — including the language — to foreigners.

"We believe in the power of words and language, especially as it shapes culture," Park says.

"During Atoboy's [the Parks' first restaurant] early weeks, many diners were unfamiliar with the concept of banchan [side dishes], ingredient names such as ganjang [soy sauce], but almost seven years after, our diners' knowledge of Korean terminology has dramatically increased. Dish names at Naro, such as Tangpyeongchae, can come across as unapproachable as well as unfamiliar, but to bring about change and a wider understanding of Korean cuisine, someone has to do it."

An offer to join Rockefeller Center's remodeling project to turn the location into a culinary destination also played a part in the Parks' decision to open Naro.

"We try to emphasize that most importantly — excluding our obvious short distance from Korea Town and proximity to the skating rink — we are located inside a New York City landmark," Park said.

"We are essentially at the epicenter of travel and business, and we feel honored to have the opportunity to showcase our cuisine and culture. We hope that this opening can add to elevating Korean cuisine around the world."

Naro, which opened last year, is considered a strong candidate for a new Michelin star this year, with winners slated to be announced in October.

BY JIN EUN-SOO [jin.eunsoo@joongang.co.kr]