[K-FOOD GOES GLOBAL] Korean food makers twist local flavors to tempt global taste buds

Due to a scarcity of selling locations, few Koreans are aware of the Tofu Bar, a seasoned stick of tofu. But if you head to any convenience store in Japan, chances are you will find several types of Tofu Bars occupying shelves.

Clockwise from the top: Melona ice cream, Bodle Bodle Cheese Ramen, Jongga kimchi, Tofu bar [BINGGRAE, OTTOGI, DAESANG, PULMUONE]

Due to a scarcity of selling locations, few Koreans are aware of the Tofu Bar, a seasoned stick of tofu. But if you head to any convenience store in Japan, chances are you will find several types of Tofu Bars occupying shelves.

The product, made by a Japanese subsidiary of Korean food company Pulmuone, boasts cumulative sales of 43 million units. Office workers find it healthy and convenient as a morning meal or snack after exercising due to its high protein content.

This case represents only one of several recent success stories of Korean food makers taking a fresh approach to their products to capture a larger culinary audience overseas.

They sometimes merge condiments or flavors unique to certain regions while others change key ingredients and adjust salty and spicy levels to make traditional dishes like kimchi more accessible.

Fermented soybeans are an essential ingredient for making different kinds of jang or paste that is readily transformed into stews, sauces and condiments.

But the salty, sour flavors associated with fermentation could come across as overly pungent for some people, especially those outside of Korea. That was the exact concern for Sempio Foods Company, Korea’s largest maker of soy sauce.

The company opted to retain the savory taste and nutritious properties of fermented soybeans while somewhat easing its assertive flavor, an initiative that led to the release of seasoning sauce Yondu.

Gochujang, a red chili paste mixed with fermented soybean and salt, can put off many first-timers, but CJ CheilJedang tried to broaden its appeal with a product called Gotchu.

Gotchu combines traditional gochujang paste with jalapeño peppers, making it more suitable for use as a sauce for toast and salads. The localization attempt is sweeping across a wide range of foods and beverages with some food makers releasing a new product category exclusive to a certain country.

Jongga Kimchi [DAESANG]

Fresh kimchi formula Kimchi, a centerpiece of Korean cooking, is undergoing a major shift at a time when it is garnering renewed attention with its immunity-boosting benefits in the post-pandemic era.

Jongga, the top-selling kimchi brand available in over 60 countries, made a bold move to launch new types of kimchi — such as ones made from carrots, kale and cabbage — a break from the conventional napa cabbage. It also introduced less spicy variants without adding jeotgal or salted seafood.

The move is intended to target overseas markets, especially the United States and Europe.

“Capitalizing on local dietary cultures and trends of ‘gluten-free’ and ‘vegan’, we added new kimchi options,” said a spokesperson at Daesang, who owns Jongga.

“Moreover, we have released a mild kimchi variant tailored to overseas consumers who may not be accustomed to spicy flavors — which comes in the original version with jeotgal, and a vegan version that excludes jeotgal, incorporating alternative ingredients to deliver a savory taste.”

The attempt came as its healthy quality has been in the spotlight since the pandemic following a somewhat checkered past that sometimes earned mockery due to its strong, acidic smell.

Korea’s exports of kimchi jumped by 44.5 percent to $140 million in 2022 from $97 million in 2018, according to the Korea Customs Service. The number of countries importing kimchi has expanded significantly from 61 in 2011 to 89 in 2021.

Jaume Biarnés, director of the Yondu Culinary Studio, speaks to foreigners about Sempio Foods Company's Yondu sauce. [SEMPIO FOODS COMPANY]

Transformation of jang Unlike other jang products, the debut of Yondu was geared towards international collaboration to boost its appeal as a seasoning for non-traditional Korean foods such as salad, risotto and pasta.

After first selling overseas in 2012, the initial focus was on Spain, the United States and other European countries with its own deep, rich culinary roots and relatively open culture towards foreign foods.

Sempio has launched a five-year project with Spanish food research center Alicia to develop diverse recipes for Yondu and other pastes.

In 2018, it opened the Yondu Culinary Studio in Manhattan, New York, to bring together chefs and consumers interested in trying out the product.

Jaume Biarnés, formerly the head chef at El Bulli restaurant in Barcelona, and currently the director of the culinary studio, said adding Jang does not transform Western dishes into a purely Korean flavor. Instead, Jang helps build flavor without overpowering.

“A little bit of doenjang [fermented soybean paste] can make French cream or butter sauce taste deeper and more interesting; a spoon of gochujang will take Spanish rice to a new dimension,” Biarnés told the Korea JoongAng Daily.

“Likewise, Yondu sauce can be used in any cuisine style to boost flavor respecting the original taste of the dish," he said.

Sempio’s approach resonates with CJ CheilJedang, Korea’s largest food maker as it sought to ease spiciness and increase versatility with Gotchu.

Gotchu gochujang sauce [CJ CHEILJEDANG]

“We have adjusted the spiciness level, enhanced the sweetness and acidity, and developed customized localized products to suit the tastes of local consumers,” said Jung Tae-young, leader of CJ CheilJedang’s K-sauce global strategic products division.

“We have shifted our approach by using gochujang as a dipping sauce to cater to global consumers who are familiar with dipping sauce culture, such as ketchup or chili sauce rather than in the form of paste.”

Currently, CJ CheilJedang's sauce and condiment products are exported to 48 countries, including the United States, Japan, the Philippines, Germany and Vietnam, with an annual increase of approximately 15 percent in export value.

Tofu Bar [PULMUONE]

Tofu Bar; a grab-and-go breakfast Since its launch in November 2020, over 43 million Tofu Bars have been sold in Japan as of June, as it is widely available in convenience stores.

To cater to Japanese tastes, the company creates tofu with katsuobushi (smoked and fermented tuna)-based soup stock and other variants with yuzu and green chili peppers. Thanks to tofu’s plant-based high protein, Tofu Bar became an instant hit in Japan when it was first introduced.

It took over the top spot in the "Convenience Store Best Hit Product of 2021," as selected by Japanese business magazine Nikkei Trendy, as the product surged in popularity, especially among businessmen looking for quick, healthy options for breakfast.

Sales of Tofu Bar surpassed 20 million units in the first half of 2022 in Japan alone, and further rose to 43 million units by the end of June this year.

The upbeat Japanese performance led to the domestic release in 2021, but it was not well-received back in Korea.

Tofu Bar contains approximately 14.7 grams of protein per 100 grams, which is around 2.7 times higher than the protein content found in traditional tofu sold in Japan. The stick-shaped format, designed for easy consumption, is also well-received by consumers.

"Tofu Bar's success can be credited to the growing health trends post-Covid and the creative approach to consuming tofu — from just a side dish to a protein-rich and nutritious 'snack'," a spokesperson at Pulmuone said.

Ube Melona [BINGGRAE]

Melona leading K-ice pop Ice pop Melona speaks for itself when it comes to its taste, but Binggrae actually provides a wide variety of flavors such as honeydew, coconut and strawberry to its targeted markets.

Since its first export to Hawaii in 1995, the United States has become the largest export market for Melona, holding the top position among imported ice creams sold in convenience stores across Hawaii. Binggrae reports a remarkable surge in Melona's sales in the United States, jumping from 7 billion won ($5.5 million) in 2018 to 22.3 billion won in 2021.

"The popularity of Melona in North America can be attributed to it being a unique fruit-flavored bar ice cream, which is relatively scarce in the local market,” shared an official from Binggrae. “The luscious creaminess of the milk ingredients, combined with the sweet and refreshing taste of melon fruit, resonates with the local palate.”

According to the Korea Agro-Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation, approximately 70 percent of domestically produced ice cream exported to the United States from Korea is supplied by Binggrae.

Initially, Melona was primarily sold in Korean supermarkets in the United States, but its availability has expanded to mainstream channels like Costco, captivating the interest of local consumers.

In 2016, Binggrae established a local subsidiary in San Francisco to bolster its operations and marketing efforts. This move propelled Melona into the mainstream distribution channel of Costco. Currently, Melona is sold in Costco across eight regions of the United States during the peak season. Building on this momentum, Binggrae embarked on local production of the flagship ice cream in the United States in July 2017. The partnership for local production was forged with Lucerne Foods, based in Bellevue, Washington. Lucerne Foods, a subsidiary of Albertsons Companies, owns over 2,200 supermarkets and specializes in private-label product manufacturing and OEM production.

"The U.S. ice cream market stands as the world's largest, and with the growing influx of Hispanic and Asian populations, consumer demand for diverse products is on the rise,” a Binggrae official said. “In the future, we plan to engage in promotions linked to various local cultural events, targeting distribution channels within the United States.”

A customer picks up a Milkis drink at a supermarket in Shanghai. [LOTTE CHILSUNG BEVERAGE]

Strawberry, banana, peach Milkis Featuring diverse flavors tailored for different countries is another recipe for success, and fruit flavors stand as one of the most popular choices.

Leading the charge is Milkis, a milk-flavored carbonated drink made by Lotte Chilsung Beverage. In Russia, six differently flavored Milkis have been made available after the popularity of the original Milkis: strawberry, banana, melon, grape, peach and mango.

Presently, the strawberry version has the highest sales in Russia, closely followed by the original flavor, according to the Korean beverage maker.

"After the initial launch of the original flavor, we introduced the strawberry variant, taking into account the difficulty of diverse fruit production in Russia,” said a spokesperson at Lotte Chilsung Beverage. “We also considered the fact that it's not always easy to enjoy fruits in their original form. When it comes to exotic and pricey fruits, consumers often find satisfaction in unique fruit-flavored beverages.”

The variants were chosen through consumer surveys and local market research to identify the most popular fruit juice flavors.

As the new flavors garner sales growth, Milkis’ export revenue in Russia hit 20 billion won last year, according to the company. While declining to reveal the exact sales numbers, the company said Milkis has consistently achieved a double-digit annual growth rate, maintaining this positive trend for several consecutive years.

Jinro fruit-flavored sojus [HITEJINRO]

Fruity soju Soju, a clear, distilled liquor traditionally made from rice, has experienced a blow to its traditional roots with a variety of fruit flavors.

Fruit-flavored soju, like the Jinro Grapefruit that caused a sensation in the Korean market back in 2015 fizzled out over time in Korea, but they have found a home abroad.

Consumers welcomed fruit-flavored soju thanks to its lower alcohol content, easy-drinking nature, and cocktail-like appeal tailored to local tastes.

"Basically, through the Hallyu [Korean wave], foreigners got familiar with the green bottle of soju,” a spokesperson at Hitejinro said. “However, traditional soju proved challenging for them to embrace.

“On the other hand, fruit-flavored soju, with its delightful sweetness, won their hearts. It is not as filling as beer, and the alcohol content is not overwhelming. It perfectly embodies Korean culture and the country’s atmosphere. These factors combined have fueled its popularity," the official added.

Such a trend is also reflected in export figures. Hitejinro currently exports fruit-flavored soju to over 50 countries, displaying robust sales growth in Southeast Asia, including Vietnam, Cambodia, and Malaysia. According to a survey conducted by Hitejinro in 2021, within the top 10 countries with the highest rates of locals buying soju, six of them were Southeast Asian nations, including Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia.

Overseas markets offer five fruit-flavored soju options, Jinro Grapefruit, Jinro Green Grape, Jinro Strawberry, Jinro Plum and Jinro Peach. Among these, Jinro Strawberry, Jinro Plum and Jinro Peach are exclusively available for sale outside the country.

Notably, Jinro Plum garnered attention within the overseas Korean community and has even made its way back to the domestic market.

"Fruit-flavored soju initially launched with flavors that were popular domestically,” a Hitejinro official said. “We conducted consumer surveys to identify the most preferred flavors. For instance, the strawberry-flavored one was chosen due to the scarcity of strawberries in Southeast Asia, where they are considered a luxury fruit.”

Bodle Bodle Cheese Ramen [OTTOGI]

Comeback with cheese As with fruit-flavored soju, some instant noodle packages have risen in popularity after a disappointing performance in Korea.

Despite its discontinuation in its home country, Ottogi's Bodle Bodle Cheese Ramen has found surprising success in more than 60 countries, including Russia, the United States, and the UAE. The name, meaning "soft and chewy noodles," blends spicy broth and creamy cheese flavors.

"As the demand for cheese processed foods grew in the Russian market, we saw an opportunity to introduce a ramyeon product infused with cheese," Ottogi said. To promote the product, Ottogi participated in local trade shows, conducted sampling events, tastings with distributors and agencies, and organized product seminars. These efforts paid off, as the product found its way into major distribution centers in Russia's Far East region, such as Samberi Mart, and is now available in local markets throughout the country.

The success of the cheese ramen prompted further innovations. Ottogi launched two new variations of the cheese ramyeon, but this time with stir-fried noodles without broth, catering to the preferences of the market in the United States.

Dosirac, a type of instant ramen manufactured by the firm Paldo, is commonly consumed as a hangover remedy in Russia.

"Dosirac is the most popular Korean snack in Russia," said Valeria, a 22-year-old resident of Tyumen, Russia. "It serves as a replacement for a full meal, but most often, it is taken to combat a hangover. I don't know how, but it helps."

In Russia, a variety of options, including chicken, mushroom, and shrimp, have been introduced under the Dosirac brand.

"We noticed their preference for calorie-rich food due to the cold weather, with a special love for mayonnaise,” a spokesperson from Paldo said.

Dosirac has a market share of 60 percent in the instant noodle market.

In 2005, Dosirac in Russia recorded sales of $70 million, and in 2016, it surpassed the milestone of $200 million in annual revenue. Approximately 300 million packs were sold, which means each Russian consumed around two packs. From 2018 to 2022, sales experienced an average annual growth rate of 15 percent, according to Paldo.

A Choco Pie is served as part of a breakfast meal on a train in India. [LOTTE WELLFOOD]

Choco Pie recreated for vegetarians Countries with specific eating habits due to religion could be more challenging for local food companies looking to bolster their presence.

Lotte Wellfood was trying to comply with the culture in India when it sold Choco Pie in the country.

Recognizing the influence of Hinduism and the significant vegetarian population exceeding 30 percent, the food maker replaced the egg used in Choco Pie marshmallows with plant-based alternatives.

Thanks to its strategy, Lotte India records sales of 40 billion won for its Choco Pie products on average annually, with sales of 60 billion in 2022 alone.

Lotte grew in the world's most populous country by acquiring multiple local companies. It began with an acquisition of Parrys Confectionery in 2004 and Havmor in 2017.

Outside of India, it took over Belgian chocolate manufacturer Guylian in 2008, Pakistan's Kolson in 2011 and Kazakhstan's Rakhat in 2013.

Orion, a Seoul-based confectionery maker that first launched Choco Pie, has 70 percent of its total sales come from overseas markets, including Russia, China, and Vietnam. Orion has garnered popularity by offering a range of flavors tailored to local preferences. In Russia alone, they offer 14 different varieties of Choco Pie.

“Russians have a penchant for jams made from berries grown in their own pension backyard gardens called dacha,” an Orion official said. “In response, we introduced Choco Pies with fillings like raspberry, cherry, and mango.”

In 2021, Orion's local subsidiary in Russia achieved over 100 billion won in revenue, doubling its sales within a span of two years.

BY SEO JI-EUN, PARK EUN-JEE [seo.jieun1@joongang.co.kr]