[ZOOM KOREA] Makgeolli master makes traditional alcohol bougie

With the taste, smell and preservation techniques used to make makgeolli continually improving, the Korean rice wine easily can be enjoyed by anyone in Korea. Premium makgeolli, which primarily boast regional characteristics, are proving to be...

Oh Byeong-in, CEO of Haechang Brewery in South Jeolla, stirs a makgeolli (Korean rice wine) mash to supply more oxygen to the microorganisms as part of its fermenting process. [PARK SANG-MOON]

With the taste, smell and preservation techniques used to make makgeolli continually improving, the Korean rice wine easily can be enjoyed by anyone in Korea. Premium makgeolli, which primarily boast regional characteristics, are proving to be especially popular among those in their 20s and 30s. Lately, however, one particular type of makgeolli has been grabbing attention due to its expensive price tag, with one bottle surpassing that of even the finest whiskeys and wine.

Haechang Brewery, located at the southernmost end of Korea in Haechang Village of Haenam County, South Jeolla, produces the most expensive makgeolli in Korea. In front of the brewery is the Samsancheon Stream, which flows straight into the sea, surrounded by a wide field.

The various types of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) produced by Haechang Brewery, shown under the backdrop of its garden. [PARK SANG-MOON]

The owner, Oh Byeong-in, 61, has operated the brewery for 16 years, and whenever he releases a new version of his most expensive makgeolli, it always sells out fast.

Oh first dived into the makgeolli business after he became mesmerized by the brand's taste, which was much more affordable at the time. He loved it so much that he had Haechang makgeolli delivered to his home in Seoul often. Then he received an offer from the previous CEO to take over the brewery. He immediately quit his job in the energy sector and in 2007 moved to Haenam to become the new owner.

Oh Byeong-in, CEO of Haechang Brewery, checks to see whether the steamed rice has been cooked well. [PARK SANG-MOON]

After succeeding the CEO position, Oh recalled that he spent a long time struggling because of the revenue. Using cheap ingredients and artificial sweeteners failed to rake in more sales. Despite spending countless nights making makgeolli, it hurt his pride that one bottle only cost 1,000 won ($0.70). That’s when he decided that he was going to make a new makgeolli using only the finest ingredients.

To reduce costs, he changed from using imported rice and flour, commonly used by other makgeolli brands, to using 80 percent glutinous rice and 20 percent nonglutinous rice, all domestically sourced. The glutinous rice, the most pricey, is organic and is harvested near the brewery. The water that goes into the makgeolli is drawn from 150 meters (492 feet) below ground and then completely purified. Haechang makgeolli's savory taste comes from this glutinous rice that the brewery uses, and from not using artificial sweeteners like aspartame.

Hangul calligrapher Kang Byung-in poses with Haechang Brewery's CEO Oh Byeong-in with Kang's engraving "The eternal customer of Haechang is quality." [PARK SANG-MOON]

There is one more secret to the sweetness of Haechang makgeolli. In the makgeolli manufacturing process, it’s essential to wash the steamed rice in cold water before mixing it with water and yeast to begin the fermentation process. This special technique helps remove the starch powder on the rice’s surface and reduces the stale taste, in turn maximizing the sweetness.

Haechang Brewery currently produces makgeolli with alcohol contents of 6, 9, 12, 15 and 18 percent. They all are either samyangju (liquor that has been fermented three times) or sayangju (liquor that has been fermented four times). The makgeolli that has an alcohol content of 12 percent or under is samyangju, and Haechang makgeolli, with 18 percent, is sayangju. Makgeolli gets richer in taste when more types of base liquors are added, as part of its production, but that means the cost increases as well.

Many find it surprising that the wholesale price of a 900 milliliter (30.4 fluid ounce) bottle of Haechang Makgeolli 18 Percent is 110,000 won, but it takes two months for the fermenting and ripening process of Haechang makgeolli — while it typically only takes five to six days for other brands. Haechang makgeolli is sold only around special occasions, like national holidays, and sells only about 3,000 bottles per year.

The wholesale price of the Haechang Apollo 18 Percent makgeolli (Korean rice wine) is 1.1 million won ($850). The Haechang engraving is made from 24 karat gold. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Its first nickname was “Rolls-Royce Makgeolli,” which had stirred up a bit of trouble due to trademark rights, but it is now well-established as Haechang Makgeolli 18 Percent.

These days, CEO Oh is putting his heart and soul into creating Haechang Apollo 18 Percent. The wholesale price of this particular makgeolli is a whopping 1.1 million won and is being sold at 1.6 million won at department stores. It’s specially produced with the name Haechang in Korean engraved in 24 karat gold on the ceramic bottle. Due to its expensive cost, it is oftentimes bought as a gift.

Most will agree that Haechang makgeolli is outstanding in taste, but it has been facing backlash for other aspects, including the fact that Haechang uses plastic bottles, like other low-end makgeolli brands, despite its high price, and because it falls short of premium in regard to its labels. It also does not use unique or scarce ingredients. Naysayers also claim that the high price is just a marketing tactic.

Haechang Brewery has been selected as a must-visit brewery in the country. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Oh thinks otherwise. He says that the “makgeolli should be cheap” stereotype should be broken. He finds it odd that no one questions wines that cost hundreds of dollars but still find makgeolli that costs 110,000 won problematic. Makgeolli should not be framed as “a cheap, one-dollar alcohol” but, rather, should be given opportunities for more upscale versions to blossom, as this will contribute to representing the dignity and economic status of Korea. In fact, when comparing it to world-class whiskey, cognac or wine, Haechang makgeolli actually is a great value for the money, Oh says.

Haechang Brewery was visited by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs in 2014 and since then has seen over 25,000 visitors every year, becoming a hot tourist spot in Haenam. Haechang Brewery’s garden, which was created in 1927, is densely packed with some 40 species of mystical trees and plants, including a 600-year-old crape myrtle tree.

In that same garden, full with the scent of ripening alcohol, Oh broke some surprising news.

In front of Haechang Brewery is a warehouse built during the Japanese colonial rule (1910-45), which CEO Oh Byeong-in plans to turn into a cultural complex. [PARK SANG-MOON]

“I’m still working on it, but we will be releasing a new soju that has been distilled from our Haechang Makgeolli 18 Percent,” he said. “It comes in three degrees of alcohol content — 35, 45 and 60 percent. It’s called Daejanggyeong, deriving from Palman Dajanggyeong [the Tripitaka Koreana]. The 60 percent version will include a set of soju glasses made from 187.5 grams (6.6 ounces) of 24 karat gold that will be sold at a price of over 30 million won.”

BY PARK SANG-MOON [park.sangmun@joongang.co.kr]