One year on, tourists continue to flock to Blue House and surrounding neighborhoods

The Blue House on a recent Sunday afternoon was teeming with people from all walks of life. Groups of seniors in visors came and went in large tour buses. Younger couples, families and foreigners, snapping last-minute pictures of the Blue House...

A bird's-eye view of the Blue House in central Seoul on May 15, 2022, shortly after it opened to the public as soon as President Yoon Suk Yeol took office. [YONHAP]

The Blue House on a recent Sunday afternoon was teeming with people from all walks of life. Groups of seniors in visors came and went in large tour buses. Younger couples, families and foreigners, snapping last-minute pictures of the Blue House scenery on their way out of the compound could also be spotted.

It is hard to imagine now that a year ago, the area was arguably the most closed-off part of the country, not even properly appearing on a map as it had served as the president’s office and residence for the past 74 years. A year ago, on the day when President Yoon Suk Yeol was sworn into office on May 10, the Blue House officially became a public space. Since then, a total of 3.38 million people have visited the Blue House, according to the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

A lot has transformed for the Blue House over the course of the year — both inside and out.

For at least six months after the opening, tickets were allotted through a lottery system. It only took 44 days to break the 1 million visitor milestone, even though many of the buildings weren’t even accessible back then.

Now, public access to the Main Building, Yeongbingwan State Guest House and Chunchugwan Press Center are permitted. The Presidential Residence is still tightly locked, though the curtains have been opened so that visitors can get a sneak peek inside.

A visitor from overseas takes a picture of the first lady portraits inside the Main Office Building of the Blue House. [MINISTRY OF CULTURE, SPORTS AND TOURISM]

Now with foreign travelers returning after Covid-19 restrictions, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism said it has started seeing an impressive number of visitors from overseas. In March there were nearly 7,000 foreign visitors and in April over 8,700. To brace for the growing trend, the ministry expanded the number of on-site ticket purchases, which is available for foreigners, the elderly and the disabled, from 1,000 to 2,000.

Janet Leiu, 44, from Los Angeles, who spoke with the Korea JoongAng Daily after touring from the Blue House, said she wasn’t thinking about including the previous presidential office on her itinerary for her stay to Korea. But after hearing about its history and how it had recently become a public space, she said she added it last minute during her visit to the neighborhood in Jongno District, central Seoul.

“It’s not like the White House tour where we have to be guided. The fact that it used to be an active president’s office and residence for Korea and how it could turn into a public space just like that got me interested,” said Leiu. “It was so beautiful inside and booking a ticket wasn’t as difficult. I heard it was chaos when it first opened with too many people. I think now is the perfect time and weather to visit here.”

Leiu said she’ll go on to visit the National Folk Museum of Korea and the National Museum of Modern Art after renting hanbok, or Korean traditional dress, and then will try some Korean food for dinner.

Visitors are allowed free access to Gyeongbok Palace in central at night when wearing hanbok, or traditional Korean dress. [LEE JIAN]

The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, which took over the management of the site, said now would be a good time weather-wise, to visit the Blue House and take a casual walk around to see its beautiful gardens and architecture, as well as an array of cultural programs it will start organizing.

Lee Jueng-hee, 72, from Dobong District, northern Seoul, said she noticed several upgrades since her first visit last fall. She was visiting the Blue House for the second time on May 4.

“I like how senior citizens can now purchase tickets on-site,” she said. “And I see a lot more chairs and benches for people to sit down and rest in the shade.”

Choi Jeoung-hee, a 52-year-old farmer from Gangwon, who was visiting for the first time with her friends, could not help but be disappointed after finding out that she was not allowed into the Presidential Residence.

“I honestly think that it would be much more meaningful to go inside the buildings, so it’s disappointing that some of them can only be viewed from the outside,” said Choi.

The Culture Ministry said on Monday that it has plans to open up the Presidential Residence in October and hold an arts and crafts exhibit there. In fact, the Culture Ministry rolled out a set of plans on how to manage the Blue House to mark the first anniversary of its opening on Monday. It said visitors will have to check the website to find out what buildings will be open to the public on the date of their visit as some of them will be closed for some time to prepare for upcoming exhibits and performances.

The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism announced plans on April 19 to turn the Blue House into a "multi-purpose cultural complex" as well as a global tourist landmark. [MINISTRY OF CULTURE, SPORTS AND TOURISM]

“So far, visits to the Blue House have been somewhat focused on enjoying the scenery and the visual aspects,” said Park Bo-gyoon, the Culture Minister on Monday. “But now we are going into the second year of the opening, it’s time for the Blue House experience to be upgraded from a ‘mere visit’ to be more vibrant and active. Visitors will be able to experience diverse K-culture events in different corners of the Blue House in the coming years.”

An exhibit that sheds light on Korea’s former presidents will be organized in June in the Main Building. Rather than focusing on their historical achievements or power, the Culture Ministry said it will be a special exhibition that focuses more on their philosophy on life and their lifestyles. The upcoming exhibit at the Presidential Residence in October will have displays of former presidents’ furniture, kitchenware and craftworks to shed light on their lives. An array of outdoor performances are also planned for spring to celebrate the one-year anniversary of the opening.

Taking inspiration from Gyeongbok and Changgyeong palaces’ popular moonlight tours, the Blue House will also open up a night tour program in June and September for three weeks each.

In May and October, it will operate a hanbok rental service near Nokjiwon, touted as the most beautiful garden inside the Blue House. A tour program that allows visitors to learn about 208 different species of trees inside the Blue House will also begin in June.

While such new and exciting programs are being organized for inside the Blue House, the areas near it have also been transforming.

Ryu Min-jae, 29, who was enjoying a cup of coffee on an outside terrace of a cafe on May 7, said the space is now his favorite spot to spend time alone, “to enjoy great weather and the scene of Mt. Bukak behind the Blue House.

“I was hesitant to enter this neighborhood because there were guards standing in different posts. Though I did nothing wrong, I just was so hesitant to pass them. Now, I come out here whenever the sun’s out,” said Ryu.

Culture Minister Park said last month during a K-tourism conference at the Old Korean Legation Museum in Washington in the United States that the Blue House is not only an attractive spot for its historical significance or what goes on inside, but for the rich cultural content that is available in the areas just outside the Blue House in nearby neighborhoods.

“Nearby the site, there are traditional palaces, museums, galleries and many delicious eateries to experience authentic Korean food,” said Park.

The ministry last month introduced 10 travel courses under different themes for travelers who are not familiar with the area with the goal of refashioning the locations surrounding the Blue House into a “K-Tourism Landmark.”

From Gyeongbok Palace, the area around the Blue House compound can largely be divided into two parts: Bukchon, or North Village, and Seochon, or West Village. Both are within walking distance from the Blue House.

The largest and most-visited palace is Gyeongbok Palace in Jongno District, central Seoul. It was built in 1395 in the heart of Seoul as the main royal palace during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). [LEE JIAN]

Bukchon during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) was an upscale village where yangban (Korean noblemen) families lived in large hanok (Korean traditional houses). But the hanok at the Bukchon Hanok Village, a cluster of hanok some 980 meters away from the Blue House, are mostly houses that were built in the 1930s as the area began to attract more residents. Around 900 hanok are preserved in the village today.

Many of these traditional houses are inhabited by actual residents and Bukchon is also well-known for premier hanok stays.

Rakkojae in Bukchon Hanok Village is a 140-year-old traditional Korean house that has been refashioned into an upscale hotel. A stay here offers various authentic Korean experiences such as a traditional menu, a yellow-mud sauna and a kimchi-making program.

Bukchon Binkwan by Rakkojae is a newer hanok stay that opened last year nearby with a meditation theme.

Rakkojae at Bukchon Hanok Village in Jongni District, central Seoul, is a 140-year-old traditional Korean house that has been refashioned into an upscale hotel.[JOONGANG ILBO]

Catering to its many tourists, Bukchon also has numerous museums related to Korean culture.

Hansik Space E:Eum holds exhibitions on traditional Korean food, and also has a Hansik Learning Center where participants learn, cook, and taste Korean food using seasonal and fermented ingredients. Classes are offered in English, Chinese and Japanese.

Different traditional Korean liquorS are displayed at the Sool Gallery in Jongno District, central Seoul. [JOONGANG ILBO]

The Sool Gallery features exhibitions of Korean traditional liquor and offers tasting programs. Various Korean traditional liquor is for sale as well.

Rakkojae, Hansik Space E:Eum and the Sool Gallery are listed on course No. 5 of the Culture Ministry’s 10 walking tour courses around the Blue House.

Visitors to Hansik Space E:Eum make kimchi in Jongno District, central Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO]

Long queues in front of eateries and cafes, even past mealtimes are a common sight around Bukchon.

Samcheongdong Sujebi selling hand-torn noodle soup (9,000 won or $6.79), is almost always filled with customers, devouring the dish served inside a hangari (Korean clay jar for fermentation). It has been doing business in the same spot since 1982 and is listed in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand section. Former President Moon Jae-in was spotted at the restaurant during lunchtime in his first year as president in 2017, enjoying a bowl of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and pajeon (scallion pancake) along with some sujebi.

London Bagel Museum has one of the longest queues in the entire city with creative riffs on bagels such as its potato cheese bagel (5,500 won) and salt butter bagel (4,700 won). The bakery and coffee shop Cafe Onion is also worth a visit. Situated inside a large, renovated hanok, the interior was designed by the trendy artist duo Fabrikr.

More modern restaurants such as the Korean-French dining bar Dansang serving dishes like sea urchin roe capellini (24,000 won) and geumtae (a local fish) rice (48,000 won), and fusion Italian dining PKM Garden & Restaurants serving flaky-crusted pizza, pasta, steak and salads take reservations on Naver and local restaurant reservation app Catch Table.

Scallops at PKM Garden & Restaurant in Jongno District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

To the south of the Blue House compound is Seochon, a quieter part of town less visited by tourists. There aren’t many hanok but the low buildings and old streets create a certain quaint serenity. Singer IU’s music video “A Flower Bookmark” (2014) and the movie “Architecture 101” (2012) starring Bae Suzy were both shot in Seochon.

In the Joseon Dynasty, the area was mainly inhabited by artists, interpreters and medical doctors, according to the National Institute of Korean History.

Tongui-dong Boan Inn in Seochon, included on the No. 2 tour course, is an 18th-century motel-turned-gallery that gives a better insight into the town's history. Before it closed in 2004, it was known as the place where the famous literary magazine, “The Poets Quarter” was published in 1936 and a favorite stay of renowned artist Lee Jung-seob (1916-1956).

The space today still maintains most of its original state, with rooms and the furniture inside largely preserved with great detail. A narrow hallway on the second floor connects to Artspace Boan 1942 where there is a cafe, a bookstore, and an inn called Boanstay.

Tongui-dong Boan Inn is an 18th-century motel-turned-gallery in Jongno District, central Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO]

Seochon also has a vibrant food scene. Tongin Traditional Market, established in 1941, has in recent years garnered the interest of young people and tourists through yeopjeon dosirak, which translates to brass coin lunchbox. The idea is to let people dive deeper into the market experience by paying for their food in yeopjeon, or brass coins that were used during the Joseon Dynasty. Visitors can customize their own meals on disposable lunch trays.

Yeopjeon or brass coins are used to buy food at Tongin Traditional Market in Jongno District, central Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO]

Shinanchon, a traditional namdo restaurant in business since 1986, is famously known as a favorite of former president Kim Dae-jung’s (1924-2009) during his stay at the Blue House from 1998 to 2003.

Namdo restaurants serve dishes cooked in South Jeolla style. Wedged between oceans and mountains in the southernmost region of the peninsula, the province is home to the country’s largest grain belt and is considered the most fertile place in Korea.

Yeonpotang, a clear hotpot with nakji (small octapus) and various vegetables at Shinanchon in Jongno District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Shinanchon’s staples are yeonpotang (18,000 won), which is a hotpot with clear broth with various vegetables and nakji (small octopus) and nakji kkuri (60,000 won) which is small octopus that has been just slightly cooked and seasoned, served with thinly sliced leek.

Tosokchon Samgyetang, offering Korean chicken ginseng soup known as samgyetang (19,000 won), is another favorite of past presidents, in business since 1983. Kim Dae-jung and Roh Moo-hyun (1946-2009) were often spotted downing the boiling chicken soup both before and during their stays at the Blue House. Roh in his first year at the Blue House in 2003, even held a meeting with local conglomerate leaders at Tosokchon.

A cook at Tosokchon Samgyetang in Jongno District, central Seoul, makes Korean chicken ginseng soup known as samgyetang. [JOONGANG ILBO]

Dinners and drinks at Seochon continue well into the night at Sejong Village Food Street, included on tour course No. 2.

Fried chicken, seafood, Korean barbeque and kalguksu (knife-cut wheat flour noodles) are just a handful of the dishes that can be found on this small street, some 400 meters long.

But fair warning because restaurants can sell out quickly as a pub owner on the street robustly yelled out around 10 p.m. on a recent Sunday — “No more fried chicken today thanks to the group of Chilieans here!”

Sejong Village Food Street in Jongno District, central Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO]

BY YIM SEUNG-HYE, LEE JIAN, SHIN MIN-HEE [yim.seunghye@joongang.co.kr]