Seoul Fashion Week unveils new catwalk for first time in 23 years

Despite being a rather chilly week in mid-March, Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) in central Seoul was hot with excited fashion lovers who returned to the venue to flaunt their unique styles for Seoul Fashion Week 2023 Fall/Winter (F/W). Being the...

Local fashion brand ul:kin kicked off Seoul Fashion Week on Wednesday with its 2023 Fall/Winter collection opening show at the event's new circular catwalk in Dongdaemun Design Plaza, central Seoul. [UL:KIN]

Despite being a rather chilly week in mid-March, Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) in central Seoul was hot with excited fashion lovers who returned to the venue to flaunt their unique styles for Seoul Fashion Week 2023 Fall/Winter (F/W).

Being the second edition to fully return offline since the pandemic, not much had really changed compared with last season, except for the catwalk. In the past there were only the traditional long stages, but this time Seoul Fashion Week added a new circular stage and large LED wall panels.

It was the first time in 23 years that the runway underwent a major transformation, adding a more experimental and spacious atmosphere to the shows.

Local fashion brand ul:kin, led by designer Lee Seong-dong, had the honor of being the first to showcase its latest collection on the new catwalk for the opening show of Seoul Fashion Week on Wednesday.

Known for its emphasis on sustainability, upcycling old work uniforms or waste since its launch in 2014, ul:kin presented earthy tones and camouflage patterns. The theme pointed out the blind spots of safety in our everyday lives, such as biohazards and climate change.

Fashionistas roam the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) in central Seoul during Seoul Fashion Week on March 18. [NEWS1]

Girl group NewJeans poses on March 15 at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in central Seoul, ahead of ul:kin's opening show for Seoul Fashion Week. [YONHAP]

Seoul Fashion Week continued with shows by a number of local brands who also took part last season, like tibaeg, Ajobyajo, Greedilous and Sling Stone.

The latest trends were summed up in the word sustainability.

“Zero waste is basically the slogan for PARTsPARTs,” said 20-year-old Choi Se-yoon, a translator for the brand, whom the Korea JoongAng Daily met with during the trade show on Thursday.

A total of 67 brands participated in the trade show this season with 130 fashion buyers from 23 countries set to visit, making this edition’s the largest since the pandemic, Seoul Fashion Week announced.

“I can’t tell you much about this season’s collection yet [the show was held on Friday evening] but the prints and colors make it obvious that it aims to be environmentally-friendly,” she said. “The design is very block-shaped because it tries to reduce as much waste as possible.”

Apart from attempts to save the environment, there were eye-catching collections like designer Lie Sang Bong’s eponymous brand — a manifestation of when fashion meets art.

Lie Sang Bong reinterprated the Austrian symbolist painter Gustav Klimt’s (1862-1918) oil painting “The Kiss” (1907-08) in his 2023 Fall/Winter collection, shown here worn by a model. [JOONGANG SUNDAY]

Lie reinterpreted the Austrian symbolist painter Gustav Klimt’s (1862-1918) oil painting “The Kiss” (1907-08) in his garments. He became the first fashion designer to sign a memorandum of understanding with the Osterreichische Galerie Belvedere art museum in Austria, which is in possession of the painting.

The event was filled with fashion-related entertainment, with pop-up exhibitions outdoors. The pop-up booths were run by popular brands like Musinsa, Metrocity and Mercedes-Benz and offered photo-op spots for visitors to take a snap at and post on social media.

Mary, a 19-year-old from Taiwan, says that she visited the DDP to take pictures with her friends and that she was going to visit the booths — including the one by Mercedes-Benz, which unveiled a special Maybach car for the first time in Korea that was designed by Louis Vuitton's late artistic director Virgil Abloh (1980-2021).

Mercedes-Benz unveiled a special Maybach car for the first time in Korea that was designed by Louis Vuitton's late artistic director Virgil Abloh (1980-2021) for the first time in Korea during Seoul Fashion Week's 2023 Fall/Winter event. [NEWS1]

Seoul Fashion Week may base its identity on K-Fashion, but it strives to increase participation by global brands like Mercedes-Benz or Metrocity to “help the event go global,” said Kim Tae-kyoon, deputy mayor of the Seoul Metropolitan Government’s Economic Policy division.

“Seoul Fashion Week is a gateway for designers to branch out overseas,” he said. “It's our ongoing goal to continue to encourage more buyers to visit, foster the designers and their brands as well as see more citizens visit during its five-day run."

BY SHIN MIN-HEE [shin.minhee@joongang.co.kr]