Blue House is Seoul's newest hotspot for fall foliage

With the arrival of Seoul’s foliage season, a venue at the city’s nucleus is joining the list of must-visit spots to experience a symphony of fall colors. The Blue House, which had been concealed from the public until just five months ago, is no...

The Blue House, otherwise known as the former presidential office and residence, became a public venue on May 10. It is Seoul's newest hotspot for fall foliage. [PARK SANG-MOON]

With the arrival of Seoul’s foliage season, a venue at the city’s nucleus is joining the list of must-visit spots to experience a symphony of fall colors.

The Blue House, which had been concealed from the public until just five months ago, is no longer shy to show off its blazing autumnal beauty to the world.

It served as the presidential office and residence from 1948 until the country’s former Moon Jae-in’s administration, which ended in May 2022. Current president Yoon Seok-yeol did not move into the Blue House, following up on his election pledge to make the Blue House a public venue. Upon being elected, Yoon relocated his executive office to the former defense ministry building in Yongsan District, central Seoul, and plans to reside in that area as well.

The Blue House officially opened to the public on May 10. Since then, it has become one of the hottest sites in Seoul, with camera-carrying tourists scrambling to book a day trip to the former executive compound.

Nearly 1.4 million people have visited the Blue House since it opened its doors, according to the latest data by the Cultural Heritage Administration released in July. But along with the weather, the initial frenzy for the former executive palace has cooled down.

An artificial pond inside the Small Garden of the Blue House. Mount Bugak is visible in the background. [PARK SANG-MOON]

“Every season offers vastly varying views in Korean traditional gardens,” Bark Kyung-ja, an expert in traditional gardens, told the Korea JoongAng Daily in a phone interview on Wednesday. Bark is a published author of several books related to traditional Asian gardens.

“All four seasons are present in Korea, and Korean traditional gardens are defined by their use of nature and chakyeong, which is borrowing of the surrounding landscape. This concept certainly applies to the Blue House as well.”

Chakyeong or “borrowed scenery” is the principle of incorporating the background landscape, such as mountains and rivers, into the composition of a garden.

The Blue House is nestled between Mount Bugak and Mount Inwang, which these days appear to be in their peak fall foliage period.

The Main Office Building of the Blue House with Mount Bugak behind the building [PARK SANG-MOON]

Upon entering through the main gates, the giant crimson-hued Mount Bugak set behind the iconic mint blue rooftops of the Main Office Building automatically establishes the sheer majesty of the Blue House.

The 250,000-square-meter (about 62-acre) compound is home to over 55,000 flora, including a giant Pacific Yew just shy of 755 years old and a 160-year-old red pine that stands picturesque in the middle of Nokjiwon, also known as the Green Grass Garden.

A 754-year-old Pacific Yew on the grounds inside the Blue House [PARK SANG-MOON]

There are trees laden with plump yellow quince fruits, orange persimmons and crimson berries on dogwood trees deliciously ripe under the autumn sun.

Spontaneous groups of bright indefinable wild flowers grow between the crevices.

Most of the flora inside the Blue House aren’t manicured, but that is the charm when it comes to Korean traditional gardens, said Bark.

“Naturalistic design is a defining characteristic of Korean traditional gardens. Compared to those of China and Japan, Korean gardens tend to be less fussy.”

Gardens inside the Blue House [PARK SANG-MOON]

Along a short trail some 200 meters long is the Official Residence, which was the house for the country’s previous presidents and their families.

It is a private area with a peaceful ambience, tucked away in a more forested part of the compound. The large front yard is encircled by densely packed bamboo among other trees, which seems to mute all sounds except the bustling of leaves.

The exterior of the Official Residence [PARK SANG-MOON]

Walking deeper inside the Blue House shows a wilder side of the country’s traditional gardens.

Just north of the Official Residence, there is a 510-meter steep-ish trail, called the Heritage Trail.

It isn’t quite the walk in the park and visitors should be ready to break a little sweat, even in brisk fall weather. But the plus is that there aren’t many people and the sights along the way up shouldn't be missed.

Above a vertical clearing along the trail is a staggering panorama that quite literally cuts through time.

Beyond the parts of the Blue House peeping through the heavy fall foliage, trekkers are met with a bird’s eye view of Gyeongbok Palace, the main royal palace that was erected near the start of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

Further ahead are the sky-high buildings of modern-day Seoul, with some of the most iconic structures of central Seoul in clear view, such as Namsan Tower in Yongsan District.

In a single glance, viewers are privy to a vista of an ancient citadel of over 500 years juxtaposed with the present-day city. It is an unparalleled experience.

Views of the rooftop of the Official Residence, Gyeongbok Palace and modern-day buildings including Namsan Tower in central Seoul are visible along the Heritage Trail [PARK SANG-MOON]

Atop the trail is Ounjeong Pavilion. It is presumed to have been established in 1868 during King Gojong's reign for the rear garden of Gyeongbok Palace.

Benches are available for visitors to take a breather and fully savor the view.

Ounjeong Pavilion [PARK SANG-MOON]

Just about a minute's walk from the pavilion is the Stone Seated Buddha and Square Pedestal from Gyeongju. It was made in the 9th century during the Unified Silla period (668-935) and is a state-designated treasure.

The Buddha’s name translated from Korean means “the handsome Buddha.”

Stone Seated Buddha and Square Pedestal [PARK SANG-MOON]

The Heritage Trail takes some 30 minutes to complete and brings trekkers back to the side of the Main Office Building.

Anyone can apply for tours via www.opencheongwadae.kr, Naver, KakaoTalk or Toss. The Blue House allows 49,000 people to access the Blue House per day, with 8,500 people allowed to enter during each time slot. During the fall and winter seasons, six time slots will be offered from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For foreigners with trouble applying for the tour online, the Blue House also allows on-site registration twice a day for 500 people — at 9 a.m., and 1:30 p.m. The Blue House is open every day except on Tuesday. Admission is free.

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]