Milan Men’s Fashion Week returns with nostalgia and a new generation
Nostalgia met next-generation energy on the runways this week as Milan Men’s Fashion Week for fall-winter 2026-2027 unfolded into a season of high-profile returns, from Ralph Lauren’s first Milan show in more than two decades to the comeback of Dsquared2 and the opening statement by Zegna. The men’s collections are being presented across the city from Jan. 16 to 20.
The calendar features 76 events, including 18 physical runway shows and seven digital presentations, turning Milan into a near-continuous stage for menswear. Zegna opened the week, while Dsquared2 returned to the runway following a brief hiatus. But the spotlight shone brightest on Ralph Lauren, whose return to Milan carried both historical weight and contemporary relevance.
Ralph Lauren’s generational homecoming
Held at the Palazzo Ralph Lauren, a grand yet intimate private residence in the city center, the show brought together the brand’s most refined line, Purple Label, and its more casual, youth-driven Polo collection on a single stage. The opening looks — striped rugby shirts, bright orange puffers, racing jackets, slouchy beanies and baseball caps worn backward — set a distinctly Gen Z tone.
Polo appeared first, signaling the brand’s growing resonance with younger consumers, fueled in part by its global Ralph’s Coffee presence and pop-culture visibility. The collection moved fluidly from Western references to Ivy League prep and formal tailoring, offering a wardrobe that felt expansive rather than age-specific.
On the front row sat a mix of global stars, including Nick Jonas, Liam Hemsworth and Mark Lee of K-pop group NCT. Mark wore a pinstripe double-breasted Polo Ralph Lauren suit layered under a tailored wool coat. The show closed with a nostalgic moment as ’90s supermodel Tyson Beckford, once the face of Polo Sport, walked in a tuxedo paired with hiking boots and a shaggy cashmere coat.
“I started with a tie, but it was never just about a tie, but a way of living,” Lauren wrote in his show notes, describing menswear as an expression of individuality and evolving lifestyles.
From Persian rugs to ski slopes
Zegna set a reflective tone on Friday afternoon with a presentation inspired by a vast, inherited wardrobe laid out on Persian rugs, evoking the pleasure of wearing garments passed down through generations and underscoring the house’s focus on fabric and craftsmanship.
That evening, Dsquared2 transported guests to a ski resort on the outskirts of Milan. The fall-winter 2026-2027 collection deconstructed and reassembled ski and winter outdoor wear, infusing it with the brand’s signature exaggerated, sensual Y2K attitude. Reworked technical fabrics, bold silhouettes and striking, flat heel-less snow boots dominated the runway before the twin designers made a theatrical closing appearance.
Masculinity, tailoring and icons
Dolce & Gabbana dedicated its collection to the diversity of modern male identity, treating tailoring as a tool for self-expression rather than conformity. A key motif was the wristwatch, reimagined as necklaces, tie pins, brooches and belt ornaments. The runway portrayed a range of masculine archetypes, from introspective thinkers to Mediterranean hedonists, rendered in rich fabrics and fluid silhouettes. Korean actor Jung Hae-in attended wearing an all-white suit accented with a brooch.
Paul Smith presented Saturday evening at the brand’s Italian headquarters in an intimate salon-style format, with the designer narrating the show himself. Oversized tailoring, bold prints and vibrant knits drew from the house’s archive, reflecting Smith’s ongoing dialogue between past and present.
Prada is set to show Sunday afternoon, with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons unveiling their latest men’s collection before a celebrity-filled front row that is expected to include Sana of Twice, Byeon Woo-seok and members of Enhypen.
This season also marks the first Milan Men's Fashion Week without Giorgio Armani, who died in September at 91. His brand will still show on Monday, a reminder of the legacy that continues to shape the city’s fashion identity.
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