The yellowtail: The raw fish young Koreans will brave winter cold, long lines, high prices to enjoy

In recent winters, yellowtail has become a seasonal must-eat in Korea. Cherished for its firm yet tender texture and rich, clean flavor, yellowtail's flesh has a satisfying chew, similar to tuna, but with a higher fat content.

Thick slices of bangeo, or yellowtail fish [JOONGANGILBO]

Black padded jackets zipped to the chin. Scarves pulled tight around necks.

On a recent Wednesday afternoon in Hongdae, Mapo District, western Seoul, roughly 100 people stood outside a sashimi restaurant, stamping their feet to keep warm.

"We've been waiting for about an hour," said Kim Min-ji, who stood near the front of the queue with two friends, braving the cold for what everyone else was there for as well — thick slices of bangeo, or yellowtail.

In recent winters, yellowtail has become a seasonal must-eat in Korea, particularly among younger diners. Cherished for its firm yet tender texture and rich, clean flavor, yellowtail's flesh has a satisfying chew, similar to tuna, but with a higher fat content that gives it a buttery mouthfeel.

A crowd of people lined up outside a restaurant known for its yellowtail sashimi in Mapo District, western Seoul, on Dec. 17. [WOO JI-WON]

"We even opened 30 minutes earlier at 1:30 p.m. because people had been waiting for so long," a restaurant staffer said. "Some customers start lining up around 11 a.m. to make it into the first seating." Kim was not even close to making it into the first round.

Among those waiting was Venus, a tourist from Hong Kong. "My friend recommended this place for yellowtail," she said, adding that she had also waited about an hour just to receive a queue number. After being assigned queue No. 10, she and her friend headed to a nearby cafe to wait.

Much of the yellowtail craze revolves around hoe, or sliced raw fish, with the smallest serving — typically meant for two — priced at around 70,000 won ($50). Japan, the world's largest producer and consumer of yellowtail, shows a similar fondness for the fish, though it is also widely enjoyed there as chobap — raw fish on vinegared rice — and in cooked dishes.

While yellowtail is eaten in coastal regions around the world — including as an ingredient in poke in Hawaii and elsewhere in the United States — it is in Japan and Korea that the fish carries its strongest appeal as a winter staple.

Diners in Korea are particularly fixated on dae-bangeo, or large-sized yellowtail weighing more than 5 kilograms (11 pounds). In practice, however, many vendors and consumers believe a fish should weigh at least 8 kilograms to qualify as dae-bangeo.

Yellowtail sold at Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market in Dongjak District, eastern Seoul, on Dec. 22. [WOO JI-WON]

"All of these are dae-bangeo," said a fishmonger surnamed Oh, pointing to four massive yellowtails weighing around 13 kilograms at his stall inside Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market in Dongjak District, eastern Seoul, on Monday. "Except for the tail, which doesn't have much fat, every part of yellowtail is rich and fatty."

Many vendors could be seen showing off their largest yellowtails, mainly because diners seek out fully grown fish, having come to realize that bigger is better. A longer growth period allows fat to build up more evenly throughout the flesh, producing thicker slices, richer oil content and a deeper flavor.

"Now is prime time for dae-bangeo — it's at its fattiest," Oh added. Bangeo are at their best around this time of year to February, when yellowtail build up a thick layer of fat to survive colder waters, bringing their richness to a seasonal peak. "The demand for yellowtail is also at its peak right now," said Oh.

Despite the availability of other fish, such as rockfish and flounder, vendors — including Oh — primarily promoted only yellowtail. Another vendor, surnamed Kim, was among those calling out their bangeo, even as other fish were on display. He said that while all parts are fatty and delicious, the belly, or baekkopsal,is the most desirable cut. "The middle section is where the fat is most concentrated," he said.

A vendor points to the fattiest part of the yellowtail at Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market on Dec. 22. [WOO JI-WON]

The popularity of yellowtail is evident online. Posts listing must-visit yellowtail restaurants draw floods of likes and shares. On Instagram alone, posts tagged with "bangeo" surpassed 353,000 as of Dec. 18.

Yellowtail was not a staple on Korean tables until the early 2010s, even though it has long been caught in Korean waters. Records from the "Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty" dating to 1413 note its presence.

As a migratory species, the yellowtail traditionally inhabits the East Sea during summer and moves south toward Jeju Island in winter in search of warmer waters. As a result, yellowtail previously available inland were often caught in summer, after they had shed much of their fat. Lean and dry, it failed to win over diners.

Climate change brought a change. As ocean temperatures rose, yellowtail no longer needed to migrate as far south, allowing fishermen to catch fatty yellowtail in the East Sea during colder months. Winter, once an offseason, became prime time. Also, as a warm-water species, yellowtail accumulates fat to adapt to falling water temperatures, causing the flesh to plump up and become more flavorful.

A large volume of yellowtail from Jeju Island fill the auction floor at the Busan Cooperative Fish Market on Jan. 13. [JOONGANGILBO]

As these higher-quality yellowtail became more widely available in winter — when the fish are largest and fattiest — word began to spread about its improved quality and taste.

And its popularity continues to rise, with its import hitting a record high. According to the KMI Seafood Export Information Portal, cumulative imports of Japanese yellowtail from January to November this year totaled 3,963 tons, up 4.5 percent from the same period last year. Compared to the same period in 2023, when imports stood at 1,777 tons, the figure represents a sharp increase of 123 percent, or 2,186 tons.

The recent surge in demand, combined with shifting weather patterns, has also pushed prices higher. According to auction data from the Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market on Dec.18, the average price of yellowtail reached 16,600 won, marking a 207 percent jump from last year’s average of 11,200 won.

Even so, yellowtail's popularity shows no sign of slowing.

"While yellowtail is rich and chewy, the idea that good yellowtail can only be enjoyed in winter makes me eager to try it out, particularly during the winter months," said Chae Tae-hyeon, an office worker who recently waited two hours for his first yellowtail of the season when he visited a popular sushi restaurant in Gangnam District, southern Seoul.

Yellowtail gimbap [SCREEN CAPTURE]

New variations are also emerging, including yellowtail kaisendon — a rare sight in a market long dominated by salmon. On social media, home cooks share tips and sauce recipes for enjoying the fish in new ways.

One popular option blends ssamjang, wasabi, chojang and soybean powder. Another combines makjang with ssamjang, minced garlic, sesame oil and chili peppers. A third mimics ceviche by mixing olive oil, minced garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Yet for many, the simplest preparation remains the most satisfying — slices of fatty yellowtail layered with aged kimchi and sharp radish sprouts, all wrapped neatly in gim.

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]