Celebrity chef Eric Ripert hails Korean temple cuisine as solution to reduce global warming

Buddhism's teachings on food may be critical for reducing the carbon footprint associated with food, according to Eric Ripert, chef and owner of New York's three Michelin star establishment Le Bernadin.

Panelists at the "Human, Climate Change and Temple Food" seminar on Wednesday at the Korean Buddhism History and Culture Memorial Hall in Jongno District, central Seoul, hosted by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism. From second left are chef Eric Ripert, Buddhist monk Jeong Kwan, chef Cho Hee-sook and Professor Kong Man-sik. [CULTURAL CORPS OF KOREAN BUDDHISM]

Veganism isn't a hip trend for Korean Buddhist monks — it's a sacred practice. But religion aside, Buddhism's teachings on food may be critical for reducing the carbon footprint associated with food, according to Eric Ripert, chef and owner of New York's three Michelin star establishment Le Bernadin.

“Temple food is the future and, in many ways, where humanity should be going," he said during the seminar "Human, Climate Change and Temple Food" on Wednesday at the Korean Buddhism History and Culture Memorial Hall in Jongno District, central Seoul.

Hosted by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism, Ripert at the event was joined by his longtime friend and monk Jeong Kwan, as well as veteran chef Cho Hee-sook and food culture studies professor Kong Man-sik in the panel seat.

Buddhist monk Jeong Kwan speaks during the "Human, Climate Change and Temple Food" seminar on Wednesday at the Korean Buddhism History and Culture Memorial Hall in Jongno District, central Seoul, hosted by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism. [CULTURAL CORPS OF KOREAN BUDDHISM]

“Power of food is important. Some people do not have enough, but others have an excess of it and so much is wasted,” Ripert said, having witnessed the situation firsthand. “Forty percent of the food produced [reportedly] goes to waste in New York, where I live.”

As many as 783 million people faced hunger in 2022, according to a World Health Organization report last year. And as food emissions continue to be a critical global issue, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) in December announced a road map outlining goals and methods for national food systems to keep up with current global climate objectives. According to the organization, this entails cutting methane emissions from livestock by 25 percent by 2030 among other efforts, such as reducing food waste and planting more diverse crops. It also pointed out that governments, particularly in North America, should encourage their citizens to consume less meat and dairy due to their high emissions output.

Korean temple cuisine has been hailed as an option to deal with this issue because it is largely self-sustaining and comprises many vegan and vegetarian options . Buddhist monks residing in temples grow or locally source their food, prepare it and use it in a sustainable way.

Jeong Kwan is a representative proponent of the cuisine after she was introduced as a "philosopher chef" by The New York Times in 2015 and subsequently featured on the Netflix series "Chef's Table" in 2017.

It was great that Korean temple food garnered international interest a few years back, but now, “I hope to focus on maintaining that interest for the sake of our future, if anything,” she said.

Cho agreed.

“As a longtime chef, I witness climate change through ingredients. The Earth’s conditions have changed so much over the years and altered the taste of many of our primary foods,” she said. “It is critical that we adopt a more sustainable diet and way of life for which I find Buddhist practices especially valuable."

“If we truly understand the roots of our food and appreciate the very many efforts that it takes to have that in front of us today, I don’t think we can be negligent of our treatment of food and the planet. Contemplating the basics is a way of thinking about the future of our planet.”

Cho is known as “the godmother of Korean food” and was the recipient of the Michelin Guide Seoul’s Mentor Chef Award and the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Asia’s Best Female Chef award in 2020.

But Korean temple cuisine still lacks enough studies for it to have a more significant presence in academic circles, according to Kong.

Chef Cho Hee-sook speaks during the "Human, Climate Change and Temple Food" seminar on Wednesday at the Korean Buddhism History and Culture Memorial Hall in Jongno District, central Seoul, hosted by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism.[CULTURAL CORPS OF KOREAN BUDDHISM]

“Compared to other countries, Korean traditional food in general, let alone Korean temple food, lacks in-depth studies that give proper cultural history and insight into the cuisine from a humanities and social sciences standpoint,” he said.

Change, however, ultimately starts with everyday individuals.

“I believe in not going to extremes and making little changes,” Ripert said. A Buddhist himself, he tries to stay true to his beliefs while running one of the world's most prestigious seafood fine dining restaurants.

Upending Le Bernadin’s entire menu to go vegan may not be a realistic possibility but “I can provide vegan options, source ingredients from local farmers and fishermen and ask purveyors to use less packaging," Ripert said.

"It isn't up to large companies, governments and experts," Cho said. "Every one person has to take action, however small."

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]