The world's only underwater royal tomb being damaged by shamans’ ritual ceremony

A 12-day plain table is placed near the tomb of King Munmu. This plain table is used by shamans to perform good deeds. Kim Hyun-soo

On May 12, the sound of kkwaenggwari and drums echoed loudly at the Tomb of King Munmu in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, which is a nationally designated historic site and the only underwater royal tomb in the world. The sound came from one of the dozens of raw fish restaurants. There were foods, such as rice cakes, pork, and fruits, and candles lay on the table in a small room overlooking the sea. A man dressed as a shaman bowed repeatedly, while a man and woman in their 60s were praying with their hands together.

The raw fish restaurants near the tomb had signs advertising the sale of “fish for a ritual ceremony of releasing captive fish” instead of “raw fish to eat.” In Buddhism, the ceremony is for practicing good deeds by releasing fish and other animals that have been caught by humans and are on the verge of death. Many raw fish restaurants also advertised prayer items, five-colored cloths, ancestral clothing, and rental of prayer rooms.

A vendor selling dried fish nearby said, “Because of the story that King Munmu became the guardian of the East Sea, this place is known among shamans as a good place to pray,’” adding, “There are many restaurant owners who rent out their space as a prayer room and receive money.” On the beach, it was not difficult to find people spreading out mats and praying.

The tomb of King Munmu, the 30th king of Unified Silla, is located about 200 meters from the beach. Designated as Historic Site No. 158 in 1967, it is also known as Daewangam. King Munmu is known to have been buried in the East Sea after cremating according to Buddhist rituals. The king is said to have left a will that he would become a dragon and prevent Japanese pirates from invading the East Sea.

It was only about 10 years ago that lots of exorcist ceremonies started to be held there. A kind of shamanic industry was formed as shamans gathered there after hearing the rumor that it was a good place to pray. “In particular, people who suffer from misfortune of their family frequently visit here,” said Mr. Lee, who runs a restaurant nearby. “Sometimes they pray for their children's marriage.” The problem is that such rituals could damage the national historic site. The Gyeongju city government said that leftover food and ritual items are often thrown away on the beach. Some people also make fires or scribble with paint on the rocks, it added.

Under the Cultural Heritage Protection Act, anyone who commits an unauthorized act that may affect the preservation of designated cultural properties can be sentenced to up to five years in prison or fined up to 50 million won. However, it is not easy for the local government to crack down on the act due to strong opposition from shamanists.

In August 2020, Gyeongju city government mobilized heavy equipment, such as excavators, to demolish more than 30 unauthorized ritual places, and some shamans brandished knives in the process. The demolished places were rebuilt shortly afterward. An official from the city government said, “The department in charge is cracking down with the police, but the resistance from shamans is too strong.”

A growing number of local residents are requesting the removal of the ritual places. Tourists visiting the site are even turning back. “I came to Gyeongju to see the world's only underwater royal tomb, but I'm scared because exorcism ceremonies are being held everywhere,” said Han Soo-min (34) living in Daegu. Some argue that shamanism should be sublimated into a unique cultural resource of Gyeongju. A Gyeongju city official said, “We are planning to build a large-scale history museum near the tomb of King Munmu,” adding, “We are working hard to improve the surrounding area.”

※This article has undergone review by a professional translator after being translated by an AI translation tool.