Korea's first Cartier exhibition in 16 years to open at DDP in May

Tickets for the “Cartier, Crystallization of Time” exhibition went on sale earlier this month, and people have been splurging on them.

A 2023 Cartier mystery clock [CARTIER]

Tickets for the “Cartier, Crystallization of Time” exhibition went on sale earlier this month, and people have been splurging on them. According to Interpark Ticket, the Cartier show in the first week of April sold more tickets than any other exhibition.

The exhibition, set to kick off at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) in Jung District, central Seoul, on May 1, takes a look at the deep history and tradition of the luxury conglomerate that spans almost two centuries.

It was organized by the JoongAng Ilbo, an affiliate of the Korea JoongAng Daily, and the Seoul Design Foundation and showcases some 300 pieces from the Cartier Collection — a selection of over 3,500 items that include vintage Cartier jewelry, timepieces and objects — and private collections.

An installation image of the “Cartier, Crystallization of Time” exhibition in Tokyo in 2019 [NEW MATERIAL RESEARCH LABORATORY]

The Seoul leg follows the exhibition’s debut in Tokyo in 2019, and is the first time in 16 years a Cartier exhibition will be held in the country. The Tokyo show was designed by architecture studio New Material Laboratory Lab, but this exhibition features contributions by Onjium, a Korean cultural heritage research institute that specializes in clothing, food and housing.

So, what are some key points to look out for in the upcoming Cartier exhibition?

Onjium has added touches of Korean aesthetics to the exhibition in an attempt to give different scenography from the Tokyo version. Visitors will be able to find traces of traditional sheer fabric gauze and hanji (traditional Korean mulberry paper) inside the exhibit halls, created by “morphing traditional craftsmanship and present-day technology.”

A 1918 Cartier mystery clock [CARTIER]

A 2014 Cartier bracelet [CARTIER]

The overarching message behind “Cartier, Crystallization of Time” is, in fact, time.

“This exhibit is like a communication between Cartier’s initial early 20th-century works and the more modern works from after the 1970s,” the JoongAng Ilbo said in a statement.

Aside from its high-end jewelry, perfumes and leather goods, clockmaking is a major representation of Cartier's creativity, highlighted by its mystery clocks and prism clocks. Described as “marvels of horology,” the mystery clocks in particular give off the illusion that their clock hands are levitating in mid-air without any gears attached to them.

The exhibition continues with the exploration of materials and colors, such as platinum, which enhance the shine of the diamonds, fossilized wood and Tutti Frutti jewelry — comprised of combinations of sapphires, rubies and emeralds in the shape of berries or leaves.

Nature was an influential source of inspiration for Cartier, another example being the orchid, as shown in its Caresse d’Orchidées jewelry.

Cartier says that curiosity is the driving force behind its creations, as Louis Cartier (1875-1942) had a “vivid interest in the world.”

A 2021 Cartier necklace made from white gold, sapphire, ruby, emerald and diamond. This necklace can also be utilized as an ornament for the head or shoulders. [CARTIER]

The exhibition also introduces pieces that find their origins in both the East and West, as well as those that were inspired by Korea.

JTBC anchors Song Min-kyo and Lee Soo-bin took part in producing the audio guides for the exhibition, which are also available in English.

“Cartier, Crystallization of Time” continues until June 30. The DDP is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. from Monday to Thursday and on Sundays. Hours extend to 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. A 50 percent discount on preorder tickets is currently available on Interpark Ticket.

BY SHIN MIN-HEE [shin.minhee@joongang.co.kr]