BIBI's 'Bam Yang Gang' revives retro Korean comfort snack

The retro dessert trend in South Korea is making traditional snacks popular again, and singer BIBI's hit song "Bam Yang Gang" in particular caused a nationwide craving for the humble bamyanggaeng snack.

BIBI is eating bamyanggaeng, otherwise known as chestnut jelly stick, in the music video of her song "Bam Yang Gang" released in February. [SCREEN CAPTURE]

The best kind of love is like a “sweetie sweet bamyanggaeng,” according to singer BIBI’s recent hit about the chestnut jelly bar, “Bam Yang Gang.”

Released in February, the song not only topped local charts with its tuneful melody but also spurred a nationwide craving for a humble, old-time candy: bamyanggaeng.

The snack’s producer Crown-Haitai Confectionery Group has seen explosive sales since the song’s release. Bamyanggaeng sales at convenience stores CU, GS25, 7-Eleven and Emart from Feb. 13 to 26 rose 40 percent compared to the same period last year, according to Crown-Haitai. Emart is currently selling the snack with BIBI’s signature printed on individual boxes, in collaboration with the singer’s agency Feel Ghood Music. Those who buy a 10-pack get the snack with an innocent-looking BIBI on the bag.

Bamyanggaeng with tea [JOONGANG ILBO/CROWN]

“I am so happy these days,” Crown-Haitai CEO Yoon Young-dal told the press on Feb. 12. “Thanks to ‘Bam Yang Gang,’ we’ve greatly upped our production of the titular snack.”

Bamyanggaeng is a variation of the original yeonyanggaeng, which is a gelatinous pat (red bean paste) snack that was first launched by Haitai in 1945. The snack is said to have been inspired by muk, a type of jelly usually made with acorn starch and often served as a savory banchan (side dish) in a Korean meal.

The bars have remained largely unchanged to this day. The brown box and the gold paper encasing the sweet jelly bars are the same packaging that were used some 80 years ago.

A special 10-pack of bamyanggaeng featuring BIBI [EMART]

A few more flavors have been added since, like chestnut and sweet potato. The price has obviously risen as well. The first ever bamyanggaeng was sold for about 10 won, which was the same price as a city bus ticket and considered quite a pricey treat in the '90s. Today, the bar is one of the cheapest snacks at convenience stores, costing 500 won (36 cents) per stick.

Bamyanggaeng grew less popular as newer, fancier snacks flooded the market and people’s living standards rose to be able to afford the new options. Chocolates, crispy potato chips and soft cookies were soon favored over the more modest, no-fuss jelly.

There are now over 1.37 million posts under #yanggaeng on Instagram alone.

BIBI in the music video of her song "Bam Yang Gang" released in February [SCREEN CAPTURE]

The snack’s popularity aligns with the ongoing retro dessert trend under which traditional Korean food has been taking back the spotlight, especially among the younger generations.

Gukbap (soup and rice) and sundubu (soft tofu), previously considered food for ahjussi (an affectionate Korean term for middle-aged men) became popular during the Covid-19 pandemic when people started being more conscious of their health. These dishes have softer textures and a milder taste.

But the biggest beneficiary of the retro food trend has to be the country’s traditional sweets.

According to food delivery platform Yogiyo in February, yakgwa (fried honey cookies) orders made in the spring of 2023 increased 11-fold compared to those of spring 2021. Orders of kkwabaegi, another old-time snack that takes the form of a twisted doughnut sprinkled with sugar, increased 2.3 times. Ssuk (mugwort) latte orders went up 39 percent.

Companies are enthusiastically monetizing the trend, twisting the old snacks left and right to create seemingly endless varieties. For instance, Kwangdong Pharmaceutical made yakgwa infused with their vitamin drink Vita500 and ssanghwatang (herbal medicine drink); Ginseng food company Jungkwanjang made a ginseng yakgwa; and CU launched yakgwa ice cream, yakgwa cookies and yakgwa tarts, to name a few.

But sometimes, people crave a simple snack just because they miss those simpler times.

BIBI’s “Bam Yang Gang” encapsulates this modern sentiment. Masked by a chirpy tune, she sings, “All I’ve ever wanted was just one thing; a sweetie sweet bamyanggaeng.”

BY HA SU-YOUNG, LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]