Jeju ocean resort fuses nature and architecture

Rather than mar the natural beauty of Seopjikoji, Phoenix Island heightens Jeju Island`s breathtaking cape with stellar architectural gems.

World renowned architects Tadao Ando and Mario Botta graced the relatively new ocean resort complex with their designs. Their works alone merit a visit; that and the stunning views of Seongsan Ilchulbong peak, designated a World Heritage natural site by UNESCO in 2007.

According to the official website for Phoenix Island, scholars have flocked to the narrow peninsula to meditate and relax for centuries. Located on the eastern tip of the island, in Sungsan-eub, "Seopji" supposedly means "narrow" and "koji" translates as "cape" in the local dialect. Surrounded by popular tourist spots, the shore, which juts out into the ocean like the head of a spear, is famed for its beauty.

Fans of Korean dramas may have heard of the picturesque cape already. Scenes from the hit drama "All In" (2003) were filmed there. And those who watched the highly popular series "Boys Over Flowers" will recognize Ando`s Glass House and Swiss architect Botta`s Agora.

Club House Agora served as a backdrop for a scene featuring actress Koo Hye-sun and co-star Kim Hyun-joong. The pair was also filmed at a restaurant in the Japanese architect`s Glass House, while "Boys Over Flowers" stars Kim Bum and Kim So-eun were captured strolling through a brilliant yellow field of rapeseed flowers.

The drama acts as a delectable preview to the actual experience of dining in Ando`s prismatic structure, soaking in the sun through Botta`s crystalline pyramid or taking in a stone blue horizon, framed by sharp lemon-hued blooms. And, of course, there is Ando`s Genius Loci, the highlight of the trip.

Exhibiting Ando`s ability to seamlessly blend man-made materials with nature, Genius Loci gradually peels away layers of stress, worry and anxiety, so that by the time you arrive at the ethereal exhibition space, one feels tranquil, lulled into a state of meditative thought.

A pond introduces the visitor into Ando`s temple of exposed concrete and stone, followed by structured patches of purple blooms and wavering reeds. Before reaching the gate that leads to the exhibition hall, the sound of rushing water, infinite and steady, ushers you into Ando`s waterfall walkway.

The sight of towering walls of cascading water, punctuated by a framed view of Seongsan Ilchulbong at the end, reminds the viewer of the astounding natural beauty of Jeju Island.

Vacationers looking for a permanent resort destination can purchase a luxury housing unit - the Hillius resort house offers 50 - while those who just want to drop by every now and then can check into one of the condominium-style rooms at Bella Terrace.

Cushy white beds greet the weary traveler at the Bella Terrace. Before taking in the resort`s extensive grounds one can enjoy an idyllic bath, complete with ocean vistas and TV, or head on over to the spa.

A back massage followed by a soak at the spa`s hydro spa pool resulted in a glowing complexion and kink-free shoulders the following morning. Lunch at Mint, a fusion restaurant situated on the second floor of the Glass House, rounded out the last day at Phoenix Island.

Mint, a V-shaped establishment that gives diners the sensation of being suspended over the ocean, matches the phenomenal scenery by serving up savory and elegant fare.

The lunch set started off with an amuse-bouche and was followed by a potato salad and a small dish of piping hot mushroom lasagna. The tenderloin steak was cooked to perfection. The cappuccinos were more than welcome after a morning spent trekking around the extensive grounds, while views of Seongsan Ilchulbong, a veritable diadem of volcanic rock, and of the native horses of the island heightened the experience.

The afternoon revealed the one downside to the resort, or more accurately, to the climate. Biting and constant blasts of wind streamed over the grounds. The deafening sound and sheer force of it made it nearly impossible to enjoy the scenery.

When the weather isn`t acting up, however, visitors can scuba dive, kite surf, kayak and go RCC yachting or biking at Phoenix Island.

Other places to visit

Framed by a sprawling tea plantation, AMOREPACIFIC`s O`Sulloc Tea Museum gives visitors a sleek and sophisticated look into the world of green tea.

After taking in views of the emerald tea fields, visitors can get a brief overview of the history of Korea`s tea-drinking culture by checking out the 30 relics on display before trying some tea or green tea ice cream.

A gift shop sells a diverse array of tea, along with green tea beauty products. Visitors can watch the tea roasting process or take a tea class.

Details Phoenix Island

The ocean resort opened its doors in June 2008 and is located on the eastern tip of the island. Rates for rooms at the Bella Terrace cost 240,000 won to 350,000 won per night. Discount prices can go as low as 135,000 won per night.

Visitors who are not staying at the resort can tour the grounds for 2,000 won. Admission fees for Ando`s Genius Loci are 4,000 won for adults and 2,000 won for resort guests.

Lunch sets at Mint cost 29,000 won to 35,000 won; dinner sets cost 49,000 won to 69,000 won. Opening hours are from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays, and until 10 p.m. on weekends.

A free shuttle bus runs from the airport to Phoenix Island nine times a day.

For more information call (064) 731-7000 or visit www.phoenixisland.co.kr

O`Sulloc Tea MuseumOpening hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. from April to August. The museum closes at 5 p.m. from September to March. Admission is free. Tea classes must be reserved in advance. The museum is located an approximate 50-minute drive from the airport. For more information call (064) 794-5312 or visit www.sulloc.co.kr

(oh_jean@heraldm.com)By Jean Oh