Six ways to appreciate Changdeok Palace

A palace was a grand residence of the king and the seat of government, as well as a supreme symbol of the dynasty. It embodied the values of its era. A palace may seem like an architectural labyrinth with inextricable meanings, but once the key points have been grasped, it is not so difficult to understand. To better understand the symbolism of Changdeok Palace, one of the central palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), let`s take a walk around the compound.

Changdeok Palace lost much of its original appearance during the Japanese colonial period (1910-1945). But it has regained its grandeur to a remarkable degree through a restoration project which has been underway since the 1990s. Through several rounds of rehabilitation after its completion in 1405, the palace maintained its original arrangement of structures, which are "carefully integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting," as recognized by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee.

A mountain at the back and water in the front

According to the traditional theory of pungsu (feng shui), an ideal place for a home, whether the person is alive or dead, has mountains in back of it and a river in the front. Changdeok Palace is situated with Mt. Bugak`s Maebong peak behind it and a man-made stream flowing through its outer courtyard. The palace grounds were intended to be blessed with positive energy flowing from the mountain, and guarded by the stream which chases away evil spirits. The stream was called geumcheon, meaning the "forbidden stream," and the stone bridge over it was geumcheongyo. The bridge is carved with designs of imaginary animals believed to be capable of fending off evil spirits.

The front court and rear residence

Under the influence of ancient Chinese principles of palatial layout, this palace has government offices in the outer court and the private residence of the royal family in the inner quarters. The front court has offices for courtiers, the offices of the king (Seonjeongjeon, or the Hall of Promoting Governance), and the throne hall (Injeongjeon, or the Hall of Benevolent Governance), where official events and ceremonies were held. At the rear of these structures are the residences of the king and the queen - Hijeongdang (Pavilion of Joyous Governance) and Daejojeon (Hall of Great Creation) - and more buildings where other members of the royal family lived.

The royal palace behind nine gates

Traditionally, the palace where the king resided was called gujung-gunggwol, meaning the "palace surrounded by nine layers of buildings." The figure "nine" here is more symbolic than numerical, indicating the perfect security of the royal residence. Accordingly, Seonjeongjeon, the offices of the king, and Hijeongdang, the royal bedchamber, were in the innermost quarters of the palace and surrounded by multiple layers of structures.

The structures in front of the king`s offices and residence halls provided both safety and convenience for him. All of them were removed during the colonial period. They included the offices of security officers, the official chroniclers and eunuchs. The security officers guarded the king around the clock and conveyed orders for troop mobilization in times of emergency. The official chroniclers recorded the words and actions of the king for the official historical record. Eunuchs supervised food, delivered orders, guarded gates and cleaned the palace.

The east palace for the crown prince

The eastern section of the palace was traditionally reserved for the crown prince. As heir to the throne, the crown prince resided in the East Palace, symbolizing his status as "the sun before rising." Changdeok Palace had the crown prince`s palace, Junghidang (Hall of Immense Joy), which was located to the east of the king`s offices and bedchamber. King Jeongjo built the hall in 1782, the sixth year of his reign, when he had his first son, and he wrote its sign himself. He conducted the investiture ceremony for his three-year-old son at the palace, and named him Crown Prince Munhyo.

Various scientific tools, including a sundial, a rain gauge, a wind streamer and an armillary sphere were installed on the grounds of the crown prince`s palace. They were not only useful for measuring time and weather for practical purposes such as helping farmers, but they symbolized the ruler`s power in a society which worshipped heaven. They were also used for the crown prince`s education.

Junghidang was destroyed during the reign of King Gojong toward the end of the dynasty, and its site is now the main road leading up to the Secret Garden. Two small, uniquely shaped pavilions, Seunghwaru and Iguwa, and part of a cloister connecting them, called Chilbunseo, are all that remain of the crown prince`s palace.

The east court for the dowager queen

The queen dowager`s residence was also in the eastern section of the palace. When he got himself a concubine in 1847, the 13th year of his reign, King Heonjong built Nakseonjae (the House of Joy and Goodness) in the southeastern part of Changdeok Palace for his residence. The next year, he built Seokbokheon (the House of Frugal Happiness) for his concubine, Lady Kim, to the east of Nakseonjae, and then Sugangjae (the House of Health and Longevity) for his grandmother, Queen Dowager Sunwon, further to the east. The three structures stand side by side, with the queen dowager`s residence at the eastern end.

Round heaven and square earth

Juhamnu, or the Pavilion of Cosmic Union, overlooking the Lotus Pond in the Secret Garden, was built in 1776, when King Jeongjo ascended the throne. The two-story pavilion and the pond make an exquisite setting. Jeongjo opened Gyujanggak, the Royal Library, on the first floor of the pavilion, and that is where eminent scholars engaged in research to promote civil rule. He named the pavilion Juhamnu, symbolizing the harmony of heaven and earth and the four cardinal directions, and wrote the sign himself. Buyongji, the square pond with a round islet in it, represents the ancient cosmic view that heaven is round and the earth is square.

The article is a reprint from the summer issue of Korean Heritage, published by the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea. - Ed.