[Samia's food facts and recipes] The wonderful white asparagus

I love late spring. I think of this time of year as the days of wine and roses ... the days that evoke the most romantic, meaningful memories - moments so special they must be relived in the mind. Lately, I`ve been reminiscing about a certain spring day in Germany when I ate white asparagus with an interesting German man. He said, "Fraulein, what is it you want to eat today?" But, of course, when I opened my mouth to tell him what I wanted to eat, he interrupted me with his suggestion of white asparagus. Domineering man, but I liked him. He went on to explain that white asparagus is a specialty in Germany during the spring.

Baden-Wurttemberg, Germany, home to the famed Black Forest, is also famous for white asparagus. Known as weisser spargel in German, it is actually part of the decor in Baden-Wurttemberg. An Asparagus Road has been established there, and it winds its way through the other towns in the area, including Schwetzingen, Karlsruhe, and Rastatt. These towns, of course, are the major producers of asparagus in Germany. The sandy soil in Baden-Wuertemberg is ideal for cultivating asparagus. Every year during asparagus season, the people of Schwetzingen celebrate a holiday: Asparagus Saturday.

Asparagus is a perennial plant, meaning it grows leaves for three seasons once a year. It is a member of the lily family, making it a relative of garlic, onions, leeks, and 300 other plant species. The asparagus shoots are the edible part. Asparagus is native to northern Africa, Europe, and western Asia. Today, it is cultivated as a vegetable crop.

White asparagus grows underground; the absence of light does not allow the green color, associated with chlorophyll, to manifest. The practice of growing plants with no light is called etiolation. Sandy soil is stacked around the stalks to prevent light from penetrating the tip of the asparagus until it is time to harvest. Green asparagus, conversely, grow freely and is always exposed to sunlight. It consequently has a stronger flavor than the white kind, which has a more pronounced sweet and nutty flavor. There are also naturally grown purple and pink asparagus varieties. Sometimes, only the tips of asparagus are exposed to light, and white asparagus are sometimes found with green or purple tips.

Historically, the Italians certainly have something to say about this delectable food. For example, legend has it that white asparagus was discovered in a northern Italian region called Bassano del Grappa, in the province of Vicenza. According to the story, a hailstorm destroyed the plants above ground, and the farmers had to somehow live on what was left. Naturally, they discovered the delicious white asparagus growing unharmed underground.

The word asparagus has a long history, and the term "sparrow grass" is another name for asparagus. Asparagus` history began with the Greeks and Romans. By the Renaissance, it had become popular in northern Italy. Princess Catherine de Medici exported asparagus to France when she married Dauphin Henri II in the mid 1500s. Louis XlV gave his gardener land to produce asparagus a hundred years later, and he is responsible for making the vegetable popular. It is also reported that during the Renaissance, asparagus was prohibited from nunneries because it was promoted as an aphrodisiac.

Asparagus is considered a sex-enhancer because of its phallic shape. It is usually steamed or boiled, and may be dipped in butter to simulate a sensual experience. Ooh la la! Some suggest that eating asparagus for three days may improve the quality of sexual activity. The idea that asparagus spears are sexual symbols is rooted in the Greek and Roman era. Some historians believe that it originated in the eastern Mediterranean, and others think it was Asia Minor. Some even think it was central or eastern Europe. Whatever the origins, the relationship between asparagus and sex has been around for over 2,500 years. The Romans also believed that asparagus could cure heart ailments, alleviate toothaches, and prevent bee stings. Whenever the Romans felt sick, they ate, drank, gargled, sniffed, and bathed in asparagus. Can you imagine bathing in asparagus?

They may have been onto something in choosing asparagus as a treatment for sexual difficulties. Asparagus is low in calories and is a great source of folate, which is important for the sex drive. Folate triggers histamine production, which increases sexual desire. It is also an excellent source of vitamins A, B, C, and E. Vitamin E is also necessary for a healthy sex life and fertility. Rounding out a great nutritional profile, asparagus is low in fat and has just 20 calories per 5.3 ounces (about 5 spears). The minerals in asparagus are calcium, iron, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, sodium, selenium, iodine, magnesium, manganese, silicon, and fluorine.

Asparagus green tips are high in the antioxidant protein glutathione, which is a detoxifying compound. Glutathione defends the body against viruses, certain types of cancer, and it boosts immune cells. It acts as a diuretic, anti-inflammatory agent, a laxative, and a sedative. Half a cup of cooked asparagus supplies the daily need for folic acid and vitamin B.

Asparagus does not go particularly well with wine because it has a mildly bitter taste. Covering asparagus with hollandaise sauce, mayonnaise, or melted butter is a great solution if you`d like to enjoy a glass of wine with your dinner. Choose wines with a high acid content when you eat asparagus, such as Chablis, Sauvignon Blanc, or dry Rieslings from Germany or France.

Finally, asparagus is not easy to grow, and it needs three years to yield an initial harvest. It does not do well in hothouse climates. It is expensive because of the challenge of producing it and the short season in which it is available.

There are thousands of recipes using asparagus, including unusual ones such as black licorice cake and white asparagus ice cream.

White asparagus with mock hollandaise sauce

l 500 grams white asparagus, woody end removed

l 1/2 teaspoon salt

l 5 cups of water

Put water and salt in a pot, boil and then add asparagus; cook uncovered for about 8-10 minutes or until crispy and tender. Shock with cold water to stop cooking process. Place on a clean tea towel to remove moisture. Set aside and make mock hollandaise sauce (recipe below.)

Mock hollandaise sauce

- 1/4 cup sour cream

- 1/4 cup mayonnaise

- 1 teaspoon lemon juice

- 1/2 teaspoon mustard

- 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

- Few drops yellow food coloring (optional)

- 3 tablespoons hot water

- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

In saucepan, place sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and lemon peel, and cook slowly until well mixed. Add yellow food coloring until the desired yellow color is attained. Add a teaspoon of water at a time until smooth and not too thick.

Serve asparagus warm, and spoon sauce over it. Serves 3 as a side dish.

Note: Mock hollandaise sauce is preferable because, unlike true hollandaise sauce, it does not contain raw egg yolks.

Samiamounts@yahoo.com

By Samia Mounts

Samia Mounts is a nutritionist and gourmet aficionado. She is the assistant principal at the Seoul American Middle School. - Ed.