Fancy a book? Reading between the spines

Despite a recent report that the average Korean spends more on cigarettes and cosmetics than books, the major bookstores in downtown Seoul are still crowded on the weekend.

The aisles, though, are full of people reading and not buying books. For those on a quest to find a decent English-language selection, be prepared to trip over sitting bibliophiles who have already broken the spines and bent back the covers.

Kyobo, Bandi & Luni`s and Young Poong - all in the Jongno district - are likely to have standard textbooks or reference books in stock. The large stores are particularly good for books on studying Korean and for teaching or studying English. They have sections for university-level subjects, but if you are looking for something specific, you might come away disappointed.

For the avid reader, there is a limited supply and novels are pricey for something that can be read in a couple of days. Seoul Selection and the two used bookstores in Itaewon are the place to pick up a paperback for subway reading, and the trade-ins mean that gems can be found and a return trip may uncover something new. What the Book? and Abby`s Book Nook both moved to better locations last summer. These stores have English-speaking staff and browsing is a more relaxing experience.

Bandi & Luni`s

In the basement of the Jongno Tower, this is the newest of the large bookstores. While the foreign book section seems smaller than those at other major stores, in each of the divisions, the selection is slightly better.

In area D2, the best seller, steady seller and new publication sections have books you would expect to find. The current affairs and nonfiction sections are stronger than the other big stores, although there isn`t so much on Korean culture.

How to get there:

The entrance to the bookstore in the basement of Jongno Tower can be accessed from Jonggak Station on Subway Line No. 1. The plaza in front of the bookstore opens out into the station before the stairs for Exit No. 2 or inside near Exit No. 3 and 4.

- www.bandibook.com (Korean)

- (02) 2198-3040

- Bandi & Luni`s also has a branch in COEX mall (Samseong Station on Subway Line No. 2).

Young Poong Bookstore

This store is similar to the others, but slightly harder to navigate.

Young Poong bookstore has an extensive English-language magazine section on floor B1. Although pricey, this is probably the best selection of magazines in Seoul. People magazine goes for 10,000 won, Cosmopolitan for 16,000 won and Rolling Stone is 20,000 won. If you just want to get your hands on some glossy reading material in English, the store sells old magazines for half price.

The foreign book section is on floor B2. In section F1, there is a wide selection on Korean literature, culture and history. Section H2 has foreign books on a little of everything, but the selection seems more geared toward Koreans learning English rather than for expats.

Schlotzky`s Deli and Starbucks are also on floor B2.

How to get there:

Young Poong is in the brown building on the kitty corner across from Jongno Tower. It can also be accessed from Jonggak Station (Subway Line No. 1) before the stairs for Exit No. 6. The entrance from the subway station takes you into the B1 floor.

- (02) 399-5591

- www.ypbooks.co.kr (Korean)

- Young Poong also has a branch in the Central City Complex near the Express Bus Terminal (Subway Line No. 3 and 7). (02) 595-1497

Kyobo Book Center

This is the biggest and busiest store and has a good selection of English-teaching books, Korean-study books, travel guides and coffee table books on Korea. There is a reasonable selection of paperbacks, but the choice is not overwhelming. Novels are expensive - a Steven King novel sells for 12,000 won, while the cheaper classics go for 7,000 won.

How to get there:

Kyobo has an entrance in Gwanghwamun Station on Subway Line 5. Come out by the ticket barriers and before Exit No. 3, there is an entrance into the bookstore inside the station. From there, the foreign book section is on the left after Artbox.

- (02) 397-3500

- www.kyobobook.co.kr (Korean)

- Kyobo also has a branch in Gangnam near Gangnam Station, Subway Line No. 2, Exit No. 6. Call 1544-1900 for more information.

Seoul Selection

This book store probably has the best selection of books on Korea in English. Although the store is quite small, the collection is specific and has the must-buy titles if you want to read more about Korea. They also have a good selection of Korean DVDs.

The atmosphere is cozy and has a counter for selling coffee in one corner where you can flick through Seoul Selection`s publication, Seoul magazine.

They have a small selection of books in German and Japanese and a corner for cheap used books.

How to get there:

Walk north from Exit No. 2 at Gwanghwamun Station (Subway Line No. 5). The store is across from the east side of Gyeongbok Palace.

Opening hours are from 9.30 a.m. - 6.30 p.m. and is closed on Sundays.

- (02) 734-9565

- www.seoulselection.com

What the Book?

For a one-stop shop, this is probably the best bookstore in Seoul for foreign books. As well as an expanding used book section, the store has carefully-chosen new books, which are cheaper than those sold in the larger bookstores. They also have a rack of imported magazines.

How to get there:

Take Exit 3 from Itaewon Station, turn right after Sand Presso, walk past King Club and the store is on the left after the foreign food store.

Opening hours Monday to Saturday are from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and on Sunday from noon to 8 p.m.

- (02) 797-2342

- www.whatthebook.com

Abby`s Book Nook

Once the only bookstore for literature-hungry expats, the store`s long history of trading books means that some treasures can be found here. Like What the Book? the store has upgraded its business and moved a larger property.

How to get there:

From Itaewon Station take Exit No. 1. Turn right at KFC, turn left at Usmania and the shop is on the second floor in the building before the 3 Alley pub.

Opening hours are Tuesday-Sunday from noon to 9 p.m.

- (02) 795-4253 / 011-9722-4253

(jane@heraldm.com)

By Jane Cooper